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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 5:26 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:09 pm
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Location: Connecticut
Car Model: 62 Lancer GT
I know there is probably nothing I can do about this but... My junkyard 2 1/2 x 10 drums have 5/8 holes. the hub and bolt pattern are correct. Were these from a truck or something? I just finished painting them to..@#$%

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1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 7:35 pm 
Your studs probably stick out beyond the axle flange a little, the knurled part of the stud is usually a little fatter than the threaded part, and your drum actually registers on this fatter part of the stud rather than the threaded part. So as long as they haven't been hogged out beyond specs
by a brake lathe in past brake jobs, go ahead and use em.


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 Post subject: Use um
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 6:34 am 
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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If the center hub is the correct size, you would not have any centering problems due to the oversize holes. That means the drum should be fine. Vote #2

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 8:45 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Connecticut
Car Model: 62 Lancer GT
After looking at it again,the axles are new Mosers. The studs are screw in and don't have the fatter part at the flange like the press in studs.

_________________
1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 5:14 pm 
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As long as the centre register is good you are fine. I really recommend new drums. I am the cheapest guy around but used drums on Moser axles doesnt sound economic to me.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 11:21 am 
OEM drums, when assembled to the hub or axle flange, and held in place by the wheel studs which are serrated, and the serrated part protrudes up through the face of the drum, and is swaged down and tight against the drum with a special tool.

I found this out when re-doing the brakes on my '64 Valiant...all my OEM drums were toast, and the new ones don't come with a hub. The book say to replace the old studs with new, and swage the drum in place with the studs, just like they did at the factory...

That really didn't fit into my program, so I carefully drove the old studs back just far enough to release the drum (supporting the hub from behind), then tapped the stud back home into the hub. Then, I installed the new drums, and just let them "float". The register on the center hole was good, and I reasoned that once the wheel was tightened-up, the drum was going to be clamped firmly in place. (After all, GM used "floating" front drums from the '50s into the '70s, with good results...).

Everything has been good for three years/ 5,000 miles...

For what this is worth.


DeSoto Frank


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 Post subject: axels
PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2004 5:40 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2003 6:14 pm
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Location: Houston ,Tx.
Car Model: '63 Dart GT Convertible
New mosers? And you didn't know it? One word. cool


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2004 7:14 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 8:09 pm
Posts: 380
Location: Connecticut
Car Model: 62 Lancer GT
I think I got that............

_________________
1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4


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