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| Rear end suggestions? https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10468 |
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| Author: | 64 Convert [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 1:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Rear end suggestions? |
Next modifications to my '64 include disk brakes and big bolt pattern aftermarket wheels. I also want to swap out the 7-1/4" rear end for something a little more substantial. With that in mind, I picked up an A-body 8-3/4" axle housing with 10" brake plates, but it doesn't have a third member, e-brake cables or axles. I'm now faced with the decision to locate the missing parts and build a tough rear end setup that I don't need, or to sell the housing and try to locate a complete 8-1/4" big bolt pattern setup. Since I have no plans to race, I don't need the 8-3/4 overkill, but I do like the quality of that design and the ability to quickly change gears, so I would entertain that option. I want 3.23 non-SureGrip gears, so either direction I go is a simple path. How about some pros and cons to help me make a decision? |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 1:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You don't need e-brake cables, the ones currently on your car with the 7 1/4" will work fine. I went from a 7 1/4" on my 71 duster w/9" brakes to a 8 3/4" with 10 x 1.5" brakes and used the ebrake cables that were on the car with out a problem. Check out your junkyard for the center sections. Look in the vans and trucks too. This will be the cheap route. Otherwise, call up the folks at www.ringpinion.com and see what they can do for you. I would guess it would be $300 or so at a minimum, whereas the junkyard route would be $60 (at least thats how much the pick n'pulls charge here for a center section, or a complete rear axle, your choice). |
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| Author: | sixinthehead [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 2:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Junkyard |
8 1/4 axles are a good choice if you can find one (look for 73-up V8 A-body cars), but most have mileage gears, 2.7 or worse, so you're looking at a gear swap there. Look under 80s 1/2 ton pickups and vans for the 3.23s to swap in. Your 8 3/4 housing is empty right now, which is ok because they were all SBP anyway. The trick is to check out all the late-60s C-body cars you can find for the right gears/pumpkin, as well as LBP axles that you can send to Moser to have shortened to fit (make sure they don't taper at the splines) and "normal" brakes (LBP and common shoes/drums). Of course, all this stuff is available new for the right price if you choose. As far as which is better for you, it's your choice. I'd say shop around your local yards and see what you can find either way before you commit. Or if the easy-chuck-swap factor makes up your mind, Mopar to ya! Then you'll be ready for the turbo upgrade down the road... |
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| Author: | 64 Convert [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 3:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I guess I should add a bit more info. There are very few A-body 8-1/4's in North Texas. I found a couple, but they are 2.7-something, so I would need to re-gear. They are also expensive...the cheapest being $325. Add another couple of hundred to re-gear and it's getting expensive. Finding 3.23's in a 8-3/4 is a snap and they are reasonably priced. Cutting down and re-splining C-body axles is a modestly priced option and even new axles from Randy's are not over priced. |
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| Author: | slantvaliant [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 3:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Did you try CTC Auto Ranch, north of Denton on I35? http://www.ctcautoranch.com/home/index.shtml They're a bit high on the stuff I've priced from them, but they had some good stuff in the yard when I last looked. It's not a pick-and-pull: They don't even want you to open a hood or door. They might be worth a call or a trip. |
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| Author: | slantvaliant [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 3:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
By the way, I'm also looking for a LBP differential to replace my 7 1/4" 2.94. I wouldn't mind the same ratio, but a 3.23 would be more fun and a limited slip would give a little more peace of mind in some situations. I don't race, either, and don't think the 8 3/4" would be necessary for my grocery-getter. If I find TWO, I'll tell you about the one I don't buy! 
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| Author: | 64 Convert [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 4:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
CTC Autoranch is the only place that has them around here. I went out to look at them, but the cars are in the weeds and it's impossible to check the ratios. They had at least 4 A-bodies with 8-1/4's that were visible. I've checked several small yards in the area and had others check through their computer. I found one in Oklahoma, but they wanted $400 plus shipping, so I obviously passed on that one. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 4:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Check this thread out on swapping ford rears into A bodies, maybe fords are more plentiful in jy's there? http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10302 |
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| Author: | 64 Convert [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 8:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Not trying to be nasty, but I would rather shove a stick of dynamite up my Valiant's tail pipe and blow it to pieces than put a Ford rear end in it! |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 8:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
How about a Dana 35 with discs 3.23 ratio BBP and sure grip from a Jeep Grand Cherokee? Is that Mopar enough? |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 10:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
A jeep dana would be cool, esp with rear discs. Minus drive shaft length issues, its a bolt in? Will a special u-joint be needed? Also sandy, do the calipers on it have e-brake provisions? Wish I woulda known about that when I bought my a body 8 3/4" 64, I used to be hardcore brand loyal too, but then I changed. I just want to enjoy my car, I don't care what brand this or that part is, its still a mopar body and drivetrain *points to GM EFI system under the hood*. Do you use ALL mopar parts? So when you do your oil changes and water pumps etc, you go get dealer parts? |
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| Author: | stinky mctinkerpants [ Wed Sep 22, 2004 10:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | fix or repair daily |
I think fords are junk as much as anyone, they use bad steel, but aren't the rear ends supposed to be the only thing worth saving, I know alot of hot rod custom jobbies have them. maybe they made a mistake and went with the highest bidder instead of lowest. what year range of cherokee had those? was it post wagoneer? ever notice ford people don't work on thier own vehicles |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Sep 23, 2004 6:28 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you have an 8.75" A-body axle, that is a great way to go. I have them under both of my Darts and they work well and are the easiest thing to work on. Moser Engineering sells inexpensive BBP axles NEW for about $110/side, and you'll just need to add bearings. Lou |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Sep 23, 2004 6:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you have an 8.75" A-body axle, that is a great way to go. I have them under both of my Darts and they work well and are the easiest thing to work on. Moser Engineering sells inexpensive BBP axles NEW for about $110/side, and you'll just need to add bearings. Lou |
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| Author: | 65 dartman [ Wed Sep 29, 2004 6:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | LBP A Body 8 3/4 |
I have the 8 3/4 with shortened and resplined axles in a 65 Dart convert. I know it's overkill for a slant 6 but if I ever decide to sqap a V8, it'll be no problem. BTW I pulled said rear from a 70 Dart I used to have - complete with a tire shredding 440. Couldn't tear the rear end up. I also have 3 other A Body 8 3/4s that will be swapping in a slant 65 Valiant convert, a 273 4 speed 65 Barracuda (has the 7 1/4) and a newly purchased 65 Dart wagon (paln to 340 it). Would have maybe gone with the Jeep Grand Cherokee rear but they a really hard and expensive to find around here. Don |
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