Is it something i can do w/ some advice from the gurus? My main question is how do you know how much to grind? i'm pretty sure i can do it myself, i'm very mechanically inclined (after all i am a mechanic ) and it seems like all it is is grinding the right amount in a certain spot.

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S. Dragon
Affected by Multiple Moparosis

72 D100, Poly-powered 5-spd project
73 D100 Club Cab Adventurer SWB, factory 360 auto
79 Aspen, Turbo EFI project
87 GLHS, #392
89 Lebaron, Supercharged 3.0 5-spd project
+ 2 88 TSI's, 84 SC, 86 Turbo Z

Porting a SL6 head is not that hard, it just take a lot of time.
Take the head apart and get it cleaned and inspected for cracks, don't wast your time on a poor quality head.

The most important areas are right under the valve seats, you will see a lot of extra metal to the inside of the valve seat, this extra metal can be removed. Grind straight down, do not undercut under the valve seat.
This pic. gives a general idea.
DD

This isn't a one hour project unforturately, so you don't want to practice on your one and only ride home. I suggest you find the oldest junkest head around, with all the valves burnt and every broken stud possible. Remove a few valves to give yourself room to work.

Now cut till it hurts, push the limits. Think of air as a liquid, and look at the port as a river. Any bumps or curves will slow things down, and the more volume that can flow, the better. I suggest, you do one intake and one exhaust on the junk head. It takes LOTS of time, but I think the experience was worth the effort, and I can now see why it's so expensive.

There are several recent posts (in the last couple months) about porting. Read and look at pictures to get ideas. If you have a question, a picture can be worth a thousand words.

The professional porters will tell you that you can hurt flow if you don't have proper testing equipment and experience, but I can't imagine how it could get any worse than a stock slant six head.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six