In a very old manual I have on hand, it describes the steps in adjusting the subject linkage as follows:

"The gearshift control cable is adjusted at the transmission as follows:

1. Remove the gearshift control cable-to-transmission adjusting wheel lockscrew. Position a container under the transmission at the cable opening and pull the cable outward just enough to allow the transmission fluid to drain into the container.

2. Place the gearshift lever firmly in the number one (low) position and have an assistant hold the lever in position.

3. Hold the control cable so that it is centered in the hole in the transmission case and pull the cable outward to bottom the assembly in the Low detent.

4. While hold the cable outward, rotate the adjusting wheel clockwise until it just contacts the transmission case.

5. Now turn the adjusting wheel counterclockwise just enough to allow the next adjustment hole in the wheel to line up with the screw hole in the transmission case. Counting this hole as number one, continue turning the wheel counterclockwise until the fifth hole lines up with the screw hole in the case.

6. Push teh cable and the adjusting wheel tight against the case, install the lockscrew and torque it to 75" pounds.

7. Refill the transmission to the correct fluid level."

That said, I have a couple of questions:

First: Should I lift the driver's side of the car more than the passenger side to minimize fluid loss rather than lift the car from under the K-Frame. In any case, how much fluid should the transmission lose?

Second: The photograph showing the adjustment, includes someone pushing a screwdriver past the adjusting wheel into the transmission case and either placing it atop the lock spring or pushing the lock spring. That wasn't addressed in the instructions. What is that all about.

Thanks for any anticipated incite you might add here.

You won't lose much fluid (if any). Also, I've found that the procedures given in the service manual make it sound WAY more difficult than it really is. Test drive and verify that trans engages all ranges satisfactorily. You can always experiment around by moving the adjustment a few holes one way or the other if it does not seem right. The most important thing is that it be firmly in neutral when the selector is in "N" or "P", with no tendency to drop into gear if you wiggle or bump the selector slightly. The park cable is critical, too, but you didn't ask about that. You won't have to worry about the lock spring unless you plan to remove the cable. Hope this helps.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

D/W has you covered, the key is finding the adjustment point where Park and neutral are correct and activating the safety switch.

One other way I have seen this done is to place the selector in neutral and carefully rotate the adjuster wheel while your assistant holds the selector and holds the key in the "crank" position. As soon as the starter "energizes" and starts cranking the engine, you have found the correct spot.

And the best way to make this a perfect adjustment, drop the trans pan and look at the detents, again the safety switch contacts are the 'guiding light' indicators (Park and neutral) to set the cable to.

The picture showing the screwdriver up the hole is for cable removal only.
DD