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 Post subject: First 225 build up
PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 6:36 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:02 am
Posts: 32
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This is the first time I have had a 225 I did not through away. The reason I don't toss in a smooth small block is I want to see what all of the buzz is about this six stuff. What I have is a 73 scamp 225 with an A833od 4speed. I do not want to race but I want to get some good torque out of it. I Plan to run a mopar performance 6 into 1 header with a 2 or 2 1/4 exhaust with a stock type muffler. I am going to mill the head about .060 and look into some port work. I have no Idea what will be a good cam choice and if I will get better seat of the pants feal from a 1 or 2 barrel carb. I like the idea of a 323 rear gear. What do you think I can do here, tell me about some cams and what you think of the carb options I am looking at. Do you have any thing to add?

MR. Rico


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 Post subject: 6=8 Combination
PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 7:31 pm 
:D Take one look here and you will see what all the buzz is about.
I have sucked the paint off of alot of small blocks as well as big blocks.
I know their are quicker cars then my hyper-pak but I have won my share of races against the v-8 crowd.
The slant six is always looked at as a grocery getter motor, but with the right set up you can have the same as well.
http://www.geocities.com/gotnitro2003/R ... r-Pak.html


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 Post subject: Re: 6=8 Combination
PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 8:07 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:02 am
Posts: 32
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Quote:
:D Take one look here and you will see what all the buzz is about.
I have sucked the paint off of alot of small blocks as well as big blocks.
I know their are quicker cars then my hyper-pak but I have won my share of races against the v-8 crowd.
The slant six is always looked at as a grocery getter motor, but with the right set up you can have the same as well.
http://www.geocities.com/gotnitro2003/R ... r-Pak.html
Quote:
Welcome To Maryland's Quickest & Fastest Hyper-Pak Powered Dodge Dart Swinger.
Power Comes From A 0.60 Over 225/6 A Racer Brown SXT-21 Camshaft .540 Lift 10:5.1 Flat Top Pistons 1.77 Intake 1.44 Exhaust That
Is Feed By The 500CFM Edelbrock Through A Hyper-Pak Intake. The 150 NOS Shot Puts The Hyper-Pak Mill At 275 HP Power Is Sent Through A J&J A-904 Trans w/3,500 Converter
That Spins The 8-3/4 4:30 Ring & Pinion.
This Low Budget Backyard Built 13:00 Second "BUZZIN HALF DOZEN" Is Daily Driven In Rain Sleet And Snow
That sounds fun and all but I am not into building a 13 second racer, I know it says he runs it every day but is that really cost efective? I don't want to go racing just cruising but I don't want to get laughed at either. Thanks for the link but I think that is a bit strong for my taste.

Mr. Rico


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 6:32 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 9041
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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The point is, a slant doesn't have to take a back seat to a V-8. You can build as mild or wild as you want. You will probably get more attention with a mild slant then with a mild V-8.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 6:37 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:02 am
Posts: 32
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Quote:
The point is, a slant doesn't have to take a back seat to a V-8. You can build as mild or wild as you want. You will probably get more attention with a mild slant then with a mild V-8.
This all sounds good, but does any one know of some realistic recomendations for a mild slant six, how about a slight cam upgrade? Who/where would I get the best choice of cam? Would I build better low end torque with the small 1 hole carb or should I get a 2? Are there any other things to do with this thing for some seat of the pants improvments?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 7:11 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 9041
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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OK, first off, are you going to start with a bare block, out of the car, on an engine stand? Or do you want to do "add-ons" to a motor that is still installed? Is fuel mileage a consideration? Daily driver, just around town, or interstate driving? Any race track use? What kind of budget?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 7:21 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:02 am
Posts: 32
Car Model:
Quote:
OK, first off, are you going to start with a bare block, out of the car, on an engine stand? Or do you want to do "add-ons" to a motor that is still installed? Is fuel mileage a consideration? Daily driver, just around town, or interstate driving? Any race track use? What kind of budget?
Well first off I stated that I am not going to race, I have a 70 belvdere with a 501 horse hughes 440 for that. So that said, fuel economy is a thought but not a big worry. I just don't want to get bored with the car, the 4 speed & 323 rear will help that. So no racing will probly opt to take it on road trips and to the saterday night things untill I hit the road with the Belvedere. I plan to just do a rering and we all know that it will be out for that. Does this give you an idea of what I am thinking? do I need to give more info.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 7:21 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2003 8:05 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Elgin, IL
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Mr. Rico...Where are you located? Anywhere near chicago? I have a mildly hot motor I'm going to sell...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 9041
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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If this were my car, this is what I would do, others might have different ideas. I would check the deck hight before removing the pistons. If the cylenders are too far worn, bore to a standard oversize, with cast replacement pistons, and a "premium" ring. Using the deck hight numbers, and the combustion chamber volumm, mill the head to get an honest 9.5 CR. Large valves are not a necessary feature, but do pocket port the head, and if you want to spend the time, match the ports to the manifold gasket. Offie intake with a 390 vac 4bbl carb. As for cam call several cam companies, and ask for their advice. I would think something around .450 lift and 264 adv. dur. A standard timing set with steel cam gear, and degree the cam in. Use valve spring compatable with the cam. most street cams can use the stock 340 spring with damper. The 4 speed will allow a little more cam then an auto. Chry electronic ign, maybe add a msd-6. I like to use full groove main bearings. That will require you to groove the lower shell yourself, or use two sets of bearings, and use the uppers in the lower position, also will require modifing the notch in the lower bearing cap, if you go that way. Standard aftermarket oil pump. Use a set of headers or Dutra duals, and a low restriction exhaust. After that it is a matter of fine tuning, such as ign curve and carb jetting.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 8:43 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Charlie has you pretty well covered, cylinder head porting and cam choice will be the key items to get right with the engine build-up.

One other thing to re-think is the rear end gear ratio with the OD 4 speed. For me, the 3.23 is too tall, that rear gear gets you a 2.45 4th gear. :shock:

I like using 3.91 gearing with the OD 4-speed, that gets you a 2.97 final drive and a 12 to 1 start-off ratio.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 1:18 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:02 am
Posts: 32
Car Model:
Quote:
Mr. Rico...Where are you located? Anywhere near chicago? I have a mildly hot motor I'm going to sell...
Southern IL, about 6 hours south of Chicago.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 1:25 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:02 am
Posts: 32
Car Model:
Thank you Charrlie S, It doesn't sound any different then any other hop up stuff. Thanks.

Thank you Doctor Dodge, I did not know that OD would be that steep, I will be looking into 355/391s then instead. Thanks for the help, I think I have what I need now, nut feal free to add if you have something for me.

Mr. Rico


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 Post subject: Cool...
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 1:32 am 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
I have the 3.55's behind the A-833OD and it's good for the regular commute on the highway, and has some "fun" off the line. I almost wish I had gone with the 3.91's or compromised and put a set of 3.73's in my 8 1/4"... the next build up will definately be a set of 3.91's though.


good luck on the build, you will like what you get out of even a simple rebuild with slightly more cam, some port work, gearing, and a small 4 barrel with the headers and the timing dialed in....(I know it took me a while...now I have to keep my foot out of it...LOL)


take care,

-D.idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 1:47 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 11:02 am
Posts: 32
Car Model:
Thanks idiot. I was thinking more 391 myself.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 4:32 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 9041
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
With the 3.91 gear, you would be able to go with a little more cam, but don't get carried away, because of the OD final drive ratio. It is still best to check with different cam grinders.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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