Or maybe a bad voltage regulator? My car misses slightly at idle and when I come to a red light it stalls and dies. I'm down to the alternator at this point. I'm getting desperate. All the gory details are in my other post.


74 Scamp.

Thanks

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Sweet Emotion

Nope, I do not believe your alternator is causing your problem. As I remember where we last left off, there were still a bunch of unanswered questions in your fuel and induction system...

I replaced the alternator and the voltage regulator to no avail. The brushes surfaces were badly worn on the old one so at 39 bucks I went for it. Don't know the history on the voltage regulator. The problem still exists. Has to be a vacuum leak or some other wierd problem. The car pulls better than ever under load and starts and idles fine. The only problem is when I do a stiff stop at a light it dies.

Chug chug glug glug dead.

Restart no problem idles like a champ. If you read my other post I have done all that I can think of and I'm exhausted on ideas. Must be a vacuum leak but I can't hear or find it. SOme guy at a parts store said to use propane to find it. Don't know. Any help is appreciated. BTW I replaced the faulty carb adapter.

I'm also wondering about the Holley 5200 and the orientation, if it dumps fuel on a hard stop the way I have it situated. The Weber book recommended the primary go towards the engine and I have it the other way. But the linkage is all set up for my orientation so it stays unless there is good reason not to.

Thanks.

OK, so it stalls if you come to a short (hard, fast) stop, but not if you come to a gradual, normal stop? Could well be an issue with fuel slosh or the float being jammed by inertia. An analogous situation with the Holley 1920 1bbl is the famous "stalls when going around left corners" problem.

Again, I'm not familiar enough with your carb model, so I don't know how the float bowl is situated, but there may be a reason why they say to orient the carb in one particular way.

If that's not it, it could be caused by manifold flash, and to fix that you need a dashpot to slow down the last few degrees of throttle closing.

Funny thing you mention left turns. The other day I went left hard at a light and it shut down. Didn't die but it was like the fuel shut down.

I asked earlier about the orientation but no one seemed to have the answer except what was easiest for linkage. But I'm thinking it may matter with this carb. The Holley 5200 is licensed by Weber, indeed it says so in the bottom of the float bowl. The Weber book I have says to put the primary venturi towards the engine. Of course there isn't enough detail to determine which way the engine is pointed. But being a progressive carburetor the primary opens first until you step on it and the secondary opens next. It may matter which way the carb is oriented. At least for normal performance. But I'm dealing with a particular problem. Not related to throttle response or ET's. It's related to stopping.

You may be right that a dash pot may be required. It seems like that may be the answer. For now I have to step up the idle so in neutral it's above 1000 RPM and in drive it's around 825 or so.

I'm still suspecting a vacuum leak. And it does seem to miss a bit at idle but it goes like hell when stepped on. Who knows?

Thanks.

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Sweet Emotion

Did you regulate the fuel pressure to 3lbs? I would also set the float level down a little bit and see if this helps.

You do realize the 5200 was designed for engines 2.5l and smaller? On our 3.7l engines, you would use 2 of those carbs, i.e. the Proline setup. The slight miss at idle could be an indicator of a lean idle mixture.

Yes the Weber 32/36 DGEV and the Holley 5200 were designed primarily for smaller motors. It is evident in all the literature regarding estimating venturi sizes and jets. In fact 3.7 is off the charts from Weber. But there is now a kit to upgrade the Carter BBD to a Weber 32/36 for the Jeep 4.2L I6. I have a call into Weber's tech line right now about this carburetor and the configuration. They are supposed to call me back. It's also available at JC Whitney. Not sure if they jet it differently or do some other mods. The carb is listed at 300 CFM. Also Proline Fuel has an adapter to adapt one Weber 32/36 to a 1 barrel Slant Six intake manifold.

I did set the regulator to 2.0 which reads 3.0 or so on the pressure guage right at the input to the carb.

The float height is a good idea, I may try that.

BTW if I set the idle at 850 in drive it doesn't die. But in neutral it idles at 1100 or so which seems too high. What should the Slant Six idle be in gear normally? 904 stock converter.

Thanks

I think you're definitely on a better track looking into that carb meant for the 258 Jeep engine. That would be a much closer match for the needs of your 225.

Dan,

Your missing my point. I think it is the same carburetor that I have. 32/36 DGEV progressive Weber (Identical to the Hollet 5200) set up to replace the Carter BBD. Here's one on e-bay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... ename=WDVW

I don't think I'm missing the point. Remember, there are lots and LOTS of different carburetors with huge differences in venturi size, throttle bore size, jetting, float configuration, etc...all called "Carter BBD" or "Carter BBS" or "Stromberg WW" or "Rochester Quadrajet", etc. The same probably applies in this case.

May be true of the Carter and others but the Weber 32/36 is of one configuration with regards to venturi and throttle bore. 32mm primary and 36 mm secondary with 26 and 27 mm venturis. However the jetting is all over the place. So I have a call in to Weber to find out what jets they use for 258 Jeep. It's a direct bolt on replacement for the 258 so I suspect the carb I have will work properly. I'm not sure the problem I'm having really has anything to do with the type of carb as opposed to float height or mounting or vacuum leak. I know they also offer the Weber 38 which is a syncronous carb for the Jeep as well.

Still my question stands. What should the idle be in gear under normal circumstances?

Thanks

Idle specs for Mopars were seldom if ever given "in gear", but rather in Neutral. Specs depended on year, equipment, trans and emissions package. Speed spec for an automatic '70s car tended to be between 750 and 850 in Neutral.

i only changed the main jets in my 5200 to 180's. performance increase was pretty noticeable but the mpg's took a dump. going back to the ones that came out. they were stock for a vega. think they had 243 stamped on them.
might change to 160's later but runs fine as is

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73 swinger holley 5200, 2 1/4" exhaust .030 over new pistons , cam, .010 under crank. stock everything else. 1/4 mile about a week. 0-60 around 15 sec.

moparfriend,

What about your idle? What rpm's do you have it set to? Also do you have an automatic or manual transmission? Right now I have the idle jets set at 50/55, mains ,165/ 165 and the air correctors 195/195. I think it runs really well with these. Are you sure they are 245 on the originals? More likely 145. I have never seen 245.

Also how do you have the carb situated? Is the primary toward the engine or away?

Thanks.

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Sweet Emotion

think they had a different numbering system then. don't know about the other jets but the mains i'd stay with what you have . my 180's killed mpg and ran rich. i've got an automatic. for the kickdown i just welded a 2" long piece of flat stock to the kickdown rod and drilled a hole to make up the difference in the adapter height. works fine. linkage is toward the firewall. idle in neutral is probably close to 900drops to about 800 in drive. no bogs no hesitations . have an electrical problem right now so not running but when it does it's smooth like the 5200 much better than the 1920 holley 1 bbl

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73 swinger holley 5200, 2 1/4" exhaust .030 over new pistons , cam, .010 under crank. stock everything else. 1/4 mile about a week. 0-60 around 15 sec.