Or, the continuing saga of distributer tweeking. Does anybody run their engine without the vacuum advance? A few weeks ago, when I was running my distributer with a 15L governer, a light blue (I think) and heavy long spring, 10BTDC inital, I forgot to reconnect the pluged vacuum line. I have to say, the car ran like a top: great pick up, wanted to cruise at 80, good acceloration. Now, with my current set up, a 9L governer, light yellow spring, short heavy spring and the 8.5 vacuum advance can hooked up properly (same as used in above combo), it just dosn't seem to have the snap, and pings some when warmed up. I have adjusted the vacuum can so the advance comes on later. Thinking about trying it disconnected with the extra distributer I have with the 15L. Besides loosing fuel economy, any disadvantages?

hi,the 9L allows for more initial idle base timing, and less total mechanical advance than a 15L. . i.e. (9L) 9+9=18 degrees dist advance. (15L) 15+15= 30 degees dist advance . a slant 6 has/likes 32 to 30 degrees total mechanical timing advance . subtract the 32 to 30 degree total mechanical timing from the (9L) 18degrees dist advance and you get 14 or 12 degrees base timing. i.e. 32 - 18 = 14 initial/base or 30-18=12 initial/base. thats good! take the 15L .. i.e. 15 +15=30 degrees dist. advance , minus the 32 degree total mechanical timing and you get 2 degrees total advance... the 32 degrees total minus the (15L)or 30dist =2 initial or base timing . or 30 degrees total mechanical advance, minus 30 degrees dist advance(15L)=0 base/ initial timing. not good for performance slant six's. . go for the 9L. ron

I suggest you keep trying to dial the 9l governed distributor in. If you are getting ping, adjust the vac advance pod a little firmer, or use a heavier light spring. If you don't feel like you've got the same performance, perhaps you can advance the initial timing a little more.

Let us know how it goes, because several of us are working out distributor setups.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Well, I found out today I have an 11L (on top, stamped 11R on bottem) governer. I used the heavy light spring (it was green) and a short heavy spring in it. I have (according to my dial back timing light) 20* mechanical advance, 37 total with vacuum advance hooked up (stamped 8.5 on pod arm). I set base timing at 8* again and seems to be happy, though I havn't really driven it on the open road yet (just a short 3 mile trip tonite). Its getting to be a pain to curve this thing for a heavy car...any tips? Seem like I'm on the right track?

Hey Eric. It's a pain in the azz to get a nice curve for a heavy car. My coronado weights 1500 kg, wich would be 3300 lbs if I recall correctly and 2.2 lbs is 1 kg. I have 15° initial 28° total mech+initial advance and 8.5R vac pod. Vac pod is 4 or 5 turns heavier then min spring tension. I use one light spring and a heavy yellow spring with a loop. last 4 or 5° kicks in when vac pod is ceasing to work, I don't get pinging and I have a nice off the line feel. It's seems like I'm undercarburated now with this new curve, though. I'll be back to my 350 holley soon and I'll let you know what's going on. My mpg always sucked, by the way, trying to move a 3600 lbs car (with me and my stuff in it) like a rice eater. My rear end gearing is 3.07:1 wich doesn't help in the city, but I get 20 mpg (give or take a few mpg depending on the regular factors) cruisin. Town is a dog, more close to 10 mpg (12 maybe, still low)

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Juan Ignacio Caino

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