What is a vaccum acelerator ??????
Something you shoot atoms through when doing physics demonstrations of nuclear reactions? 
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| float adjustment https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12340 |
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| Author: | ole_blue [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 4:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | float adjustment |
hey everyone, could someone please explain how to adjust the float on the carter BBD. Also is the vaccum acelerator and air pump needed for the slant to run good? |
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| Author: | Craig [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 5:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
What is a vaccum acelerator ?????? Something you shoot atoms through when doing physics demonstrations of nuclear reactions?
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| Author: | 74W100/6 [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 8:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | Amplifier...not accelerator |
i think what he meant to say was Amplifier, not accelerator. If i knew how to post pics i would but im sure just about everyone here knows what it is...if not its the big circular module that almost all of you vaccuum hoses plug into before they get to their desired place. |
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| Author: | Dennis Weaver [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 8:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: What is a vaccum acelerator ??????
Duh, Craig, it works the warp drive actuator on an early A-body and it's hooked to the charcoal canister on certain years. This serves to excite the substrate carbon atoms in the canister, converting them to dilithium crystals for warp speeds above 5. It impulse speeds, the time-space continuum unwarps around them and they revert back to ordinary charcoal. I thought you were knowledgeable, Craig... Something you shoot atoms through when doing physics demonstrations of nuclear reactions? I bet Dan knew that.D/W |
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| Author: | Slant6Ram [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | Easy Now |
Poor guy can't get a straight answer Not really needed to "run good" but these systems might help emissions and gas mileage if used properly. If you are planning to rip them off and get a bunch of extra power, you will be sadly mistaken. the float adjustment procedure is covered by the super six article. http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supersix/article.htm |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: float adjustment |
Quote: hey everyone,
Float adjustment specification varies depending on which exact BBD you're running. Procedure is in the factory service manual. A special tool is required (it comes with a carb kit). Basically, you install the float w/hinge pin, inlet needle and seat and float retainer, and turn the carb center casting upside down with your thumb holding the retainer. The float will drop. Lay the correct part of the gauge tool (there are different tabs on it for different float settings) across the casting so that the two tabs touch the two float "pontoons". They should just touch. They should not bump the float upward, nor should there be a gap between the gauge tabs and the float "pontoons". Adjustment is achieved by carefully bending the tab at the center of the float assembly, where it contacts the back of the inlet needle. could someone please explain how to adjust the float on the carter BBD. Also is the vaccum acelerator and air pump needed for the slant to run good? Vacuum "accelerator" = vacuum actuator. It is part of the exhaust gas recirculation system, which in turn is part of the emission control system. Whether it is a good idea or not to disable this system is not a simple yes/no question. The answer depends on many factors including your specific engine configuration, the nature of any emission tests you must pass, and the type of gasoline you burn. |
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| Author: | ole_blue [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Before I read any futher I did mean the amplifier. Thanks Graig for your back woods sarcasium and insightful information. |
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| Author: | ole_blue [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Dan, As always you come through with very knowledgeable information. In my conversion. I already did away with the air pump and vaccume AMPLIFIER. My problem is that after coming home from work (about 20 miles), when I shut off the engine it sputters before it shuts off. I have also heard this called dieseling. After it does cut off I can smell gas pretty strongly making me think it may be overloading ( another term I am not sure what is ment by). The BBD I have installed is 64-1188, carter # 2425. If I can get my daughter's camera awayfrom her for a min I'll try and take some pics of my setup for a better analisis. Thanks, ole_blue |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 12:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Dieseling or after-run, yes. This is caused by excessive combustion chamber temperatures in combination with excessive idle air flow. Common culprits are: -Spark plugs: Too high a heat range (Which plugs are you running?) -Carbon buildup in combustion chambers (How many miles on the engine, does it burn any oil, what kind of gas do you burn?) -Overly-advanced ignition timing (Where do you have it set? What method did you use to set it?) -Lean mixture (carb float set too low, vacuum leak(s) and/or other carburetion problems) Perversely, overly-RETARDED ignition timing can also cause after-run, and here's how: You have a pinging problem, perhaps aggravated by the removal of the EGR system, so you retard the ignition timing. This drops your idle speed, so you use the idle speed adjustment screw to bring it back up. This opens the throttle plate wider at idle, which means when you turn off the ignition, if conditions are even marginally right for compression ignition (dieseling, after-run), there'll be enough air/fuel flow to support it. So, in short (finally...) I don't think a too-high float is causing your problem. As far as the gas smell, that's a common occurrence when after-run occurs, and here's why: The engine frequently will be driven *backwards* on the final one or two "coughs" of after-run, which forces partially burned gasoline out through the intake manifold, up through the carb and air filter, and out to atmosphere, where you can smell it. Even if the engine is only driven forwards by the compression ignition, the gasoline drawn in is very inefficiently burned, so you get very rich/smelly exhaust out the tailpipe. For now, until you fix it, you can stop the symptom by shutting off the ignition in "Drive" or "Reverse" rather than in "Park", assuming you have an automatic. The load on the engine in a driving gear will drag it down to a stop immediately and not let it after-run. Those numbers are not Carter carb ID numbers, by the way. |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 5:22 pm ] |
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Can run-on destroy an engine. |
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| Author: | Craig [ Wed Mar 23, 2005 8:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Duh, Craig, it works the warp drive actuator on an early A-body and it's hooked to the charcoal canister on certain years. This serves to excite the substrate carbon atoms in the canister, converting them to dilithium crystals for warp speeds above 5. It impulse speeds, the time-space continuum unwarps around them and they revert back to ordinary charcoal. I thought you were knowledgeable, Craig... I bet Dan knew that.D/W I did not realize the early A-bodies were so technologically advanced. They must have lost some of that technology by the time they made mine!
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| Author: | ole_blue [ Thu Mar 24, 2005 1:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks again dan, as for the plugs , there autolite but i'll have to get back with you on the numbers. I do know that I put in the info on the walmart plug thing and got the ones listed. as for the miles on the engine, i'd say around 3 thousand bought from advance auto. I ordered one for an 80 model , but recieved an 81. the thing that struck me first about it was there were no adjusting screws for the rocker arms. I assummed they were self adjusting and left it at that. As for the timing, I used a timing light and have it set at 12 btdc and the air jets screws are 3 1/2 turns from the bottom. your right about the engine going backwards just before shutting off. I had the hood open while tinkering with it and can plainly see the fan turn backwards as it sputters off. I don't have an automatic, but rather a four speed manual transmission and I installed a manual choke. I bought the carb off of ebay and attaching the picture of it as it was listed on ebay and the info listed for it. THIS NO RESERVE AUCTION IS FOR A CARTER BBD 2 BBL CARB THAT HAS BEEN REMANUFACTURED BY HOLLEY , THIS CARB FITS A 1977 - 1978 - 1979 - 1980 - 1981- 1982 - 1983 .DODGE PICKUPS AND VANS WITH A 225 CU IN.ENGINE IN ALL ( MODEL - D , W - 1, 2, 3 , B - 1 ,2 ) APPLICATIONS WITH A MANUAL OR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ,IT MAY ALSO FIT OTHER YEARS AND APPLICATIONS PLEASE LOOK AT THE PICTURES TO MAKE SURE IT WILL FIT YOURS .THIS CARB WAS SEALED IN THE PLASTIC UNTIL I OPENED IT TO TAKE THE PICTURES . THE HOLLEY NUMBER IS 64 -1188 AND THE CARTER NUMBER IS 8110S   also it sometimes backfires after it shuts off, since i work nights and get home around 3:00 am its rather akward. I'll pull a plug tomrrow to tell you which plug I have installed, by the way I have them gauged at 35 thousanth. Thanks, ole_blue |
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| Author: | ole_blue [ Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
update, I just pulled a plug and there autolite 24's. I went back to wal-mart and got a set of autolite platinium 26's and gauged them at .035 and installed them. All the plugs looked pretty good except for the number 6 plug. It had oil around the threads and electrode, but none on the wire that you gauge it by. I also did a compression check on the #6 and #3. After a few rotations #6 was around 115 and #3 was alittle above 100. as far as the gas I run it's the plus gas (89 octane). I may have been mistaken about the miles on the engine now that I think about it. It's been in the truck for about three years now so I'm gonna say probally no more than 30,000 miles. |
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