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Refresh my Brain Please!
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12419
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Author:  69a100 [ Tue Mar 29, 2005 2:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Refresh my Brain Please!

I can't seem to find or remember what year that the cranks were changed for that pilot bushing thingy for a different tranny. I know they can be bought from wildcat.
Here's why I ask, IIRC when I bought my van 3 years ago, that the dude said that it has a 67 motor and a 68 tranny/727. If this is the case does that mean that I have one of those spacers or no? And whats the story behind needing one again?
Bam Bam is going to get the tranny rebuilt next week while Im out in the Azores and want to make sure this dude doesn't dick something up while Im gone. Thanks

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Mar 29, 2005 3:35 pm ]
Post subject: 

You cannot bolt a '68-up automatic trans to a '67-down slant-6, because the later torque converter nose is larger than the counterbore in the rear of the early crank. (And the early torque converter doesn't fit the later input shaft).

You can install a '68-up slant-6 in front of a '67-down automatic with the use of the adaptor bushing.

You can install any year manual trans behind any year slant-6 as long as the crank has a pilot bushing in it.

Author:  steponmebbbboom [ Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:41 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
You cannot bolt a '68-up automatic trans to a '67-down slant-6, because the later torque converter nose is larger than the counterbore in the rear of the early crank. (And the early torque converter doesn't fit the later input shaft).
This is true, but nevertheless it can be done if you are cheap and patient. There is enough meat on the end of the crank to allow the counterbore to be opened up on a lathe. I did this on my spare slant out of a 64 Polara. Of course I tried turning down the TC locating pin, and destroyed it. So don't try that route. You will have to widen the counterbore quite a bit, and the crank is forged so take nice light passes and be patient. You will probably have to grind the inside even further with a die grinder to clearance the end of the pin. Expect about two hours on a lathe, plus an oilpan gasket. Not fun but beats finding another engine or trans.

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