I have a leak in the upper hose connection area of my radiator that was patched with JB Weld, but the JB Weld didnt hold. What should I use to re patch it?

Drain the fluid, and solder it. YOu need a torch, solder, and a jar of flux. If you don;t want to do that, take it out, and have a local radiator shop fix it. Usually they will pressure test it, and repair it for about 100 bucks. If you are in Maryland, or somewhere close, I have one I will sell real cheap. It is from a 73 Dart.

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69 Dart Swinger, 230 ci slant, t-5 five speed, intercooled turbo, 4 wheel disk brakes, tubular upper control arms.

If you wish to repair it yourself with solder, get the "acid core" solder (not rosin core, which is used for electronics). Dip the solder in flux, heat the spot on the radiator you want to repair with the torch, then when it gets nice and hot put the solder on it (with the torch still applied). With the flux, it should flow really nicely onto the radiator. Then when you've got it repaired like you want, take the torch off and let it cool. After a few seconds it'll be good to go and you can use it immediately.

If it's on the top tank, you can clean it up good, sand it, dry it with denatured alcohol and apply another round of our good friend JBweld! A hair dryer helps the JB flow and adhere well, but stick around until it starts to set up, or it will all run off. Solder is, of course, the prefered method, but sometimes a tank is just to thin and rotten to respond well to soldering. If you have no other cooling issues, a 7lb. relief cap will help keep the leaks minimized.

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

I think it's a soldered crack because it's definately soldered under the JB Weld. Trouble is the solder and JB Weld are thick and stuck on good so the best I can easily do for now is slop more JB on top of the mess, and hope it'll be good for x number more miles....

JBweld is an invaluable substance if used properly. If you just slop some more on top of what's there, it's gonna leak, gauranteed.

It is not difficult to remove old JBweld. Carefully use a small screwdriver to chip away at it and sand. A sanding roll on a Dremel helps considerably. The key to JBweld success is in the preparation.

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

You should be able to burn that old JB weld off with a torch. Use a wire brush and apply the flame.

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69 Dart Swinger, 230 ci slant, t-5 five speed, intercooled turbo, 4 wheel disk brakes, tubular upper control arms.

Be careful with that torch around the solder joint between the tank and the core. If that solder drops away you will just have another leak. Dont let the upper tank get too hot.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

I just saw today at Advance Auto Parts a tube of sealer by http://www.Permatex.com for repairing radiators and fuel tanks.

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

I patched the core of the rad on my truck 3 different times last year till I finally gave up and purchased a used replacement.

The last failure was a 'blow out', about an inch long right beside a previous patch with only a 7lb cap. The heat suddenly stopped? , so I had to nurse her home on minimal coolant.

My point being, 20 or more years might just be all you can get from a rad, and it can be O.K. to replace it.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six