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| Sticking buttons in my 60V - what to do? https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12675 |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Tue Apr 19, 2005 12:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | Sticking buttons in my 60V - what to do? |
I've been restoring my 60 V wagon. It sat a long time. My question is about the pushbutton automatic. Normally, it works fine, but sometimes, when you've depressed the neutral button, you cannot push the Reverse button in without the two buttons sticking in at the same time. My mechanic has lubed the mechanism and tells me it's working great; somehow I don't believe this since the problem keeps happening. First, it was an adjustment on the transmission cable. Then they told me there really was no cable to really adjust, it was a matter of whether the buttons were properly lubricated. Then, they found a spring hanging down from the reverse button which undoubtedly made a difference in it's performance. Does anyone have ideas or solutions? I'd like to try and fix the problem. Thanks. Evan Atkinson |
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| Author: | relic-lover [ Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | Pushbutton module |
I would think the problem would have to be in the pushbutton module. I agree with your mechanic there is not much in the way of cable adjustment that would solve this issue. There are a number of springs in the module and IIRC there is a small one on a tiny sliding plate that is part of the mechanism that pops the other buttons out when N is pressed. Check this plate for free movement - make sure the spring is present (my 61's was broken in two). If this plate slides sluggishly the R button will not get popped out before the N button is fully depressed. Also check for binding of the R button in the felt and beauty plate in the dash. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Apr 19, 2005 10:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yeah, generally the parts that get balky are WAYYYY at the back of the pushbutton mechanism -- not easily accessible for easy lubrication without actually removing it from under the dash (often easier to remove the instrument cluster and go in from there). The slide cards all have springs at the rear of the button box, and there is also the coil spring for the park lever, on the left side of the box. Just removing the bezel plate and going "Pssht!" with a spray can won't really get the job done. A good quality silicone spray works fine for the mechanism, but you have to get *to* the mechanism! Also, behind the bezel plate is a felt anti-rattler. Remove this and go wash it in the sink with some hot water and laundry detergent -- really squeeze and fold it and you'll be amazed how black the resultant water is. Once it's fully dry, saturate it with spray silicone and let it dry again before reinstallation. (If this still fails, you'll need to check for broken springs) |
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| Author: | XChosen [ Sun Apr 24, 2005 7:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Has anyone seen a replacement mechanism for the bushbutton. I'm not referring to a collumn $#!+ but a pushbutton remake. Something with smoother action? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Apr 24, 2005 9:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The stock setup has very smooth action when it's set up and lubed correctly. |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Sun Apr 24, 2005 1:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
My push button setup, works great. And I have a full manual valve body, so I need to push buttons for every gear change, up or down. |
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| Author: | twentyshots [ Thu Aug 02, 2012 3:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
does this same advice apply for the pushbuttons for the HEATER? my transmission buttons are fine, but my heater buttons are sticking/tight (however you'd describe that)..... for instance, when "off" you can still kind of hear a passage of air that changes with the amount of pressure you apply to the button. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Aug 02, 2012 3:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: does this same advice apply for the pushbuttons for the HEATER? my transmission buttons are fine, but my heater buttons are sticking/tight (however you'd describe that).....
No. Your selector switch is toasted and needs rebuilding. Send email to aepowell3@verizon.net . Advise him your '61 Lancer 4-pushbutton heater switch (same as '62, so he doesn't get spooked and say "I only do '62-'65 switches") needs rebuilding; he'll have you send it in.for instance, when "off" you can still kind of hear a passage of air that changes with the amount of pressure you apply to the button. Want to try it yourself? See page 1 and page 2. |
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| Author: | twentyshots [ Fri Aug 03, 2012 7:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote:
No. Your selector switch is toasted and needs rebuilding. Send email to aepowell3@verizon.net . Advise him your '61 Lancer 4-pushbutton heater switch (same as '62, so he doesn't get spooked and say "I only do '62-'65 switches") needs rebuilding; he'll have you send it in.
that article is a cool find.Want to try it yourself? See page 1 and page 2. well, dang. i was hoping you'd say "spray some silicone solution in there" and that would be the end of it, but really i knew it would involve more. i will email that guy, thanks. guess i'll have to pop it out to send it to him. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Aug 03, 2012 8:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yepper. If you have a switch in perfect working order, you can keep it that way with spray silicone. Once it's grown difficult to push the buttons, every buttonpush is worsening the internal damage and silicone will just soften the abraded slide cards and hasten the damage. |
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