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Carb woes
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13438		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  blue195 [ Thu Jun 23, 2005 9:20 am ]
Post subject:  Carb woes
...
Author:  gearhead [ Thu Jun 23, 2005 9:33 am ]
Post subject: 
I can rebush carbs...but what kind of carb?

I charge $25 for a Qjet...but I rarely do any other types so I would have to know what kind of carb to tell you if I can...and what I would charge.

Gearhead
Author:  blue195 [ Thu Jun 23, 2005 9:39 am ]
Post subject: 
a bag of Fritos
Author:  gearhead [ Thu Jun 23, 2005 10:18 am ]
Post subject: 
Hmmm...although I've built a number of those....including the one on my 1972 Mustang fastback...I've never done the throttle shafts on one. The Mustang is in storage right now so I can't measure the t-shaft...but if it is 3/8" dia I can do it.

If it is larger diameter, I could do it if you found no other sources, but I would have to make a tool from scratch by modifying a valve guide reamer which is time consuming and would cost the price of the reamer...

So I'd be willing if its 3/8", but would rather you found another source if its larger. That said, if you can't find a reasonable source, I'd be willing to make the tool and do yours for $45, since I probably wouldn't use the tool, again because I don't really build many carbs or distributors anymore.

Will help if I can

Gearhead
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Jun 23, 2005 11:04 am ]
Post subject: 
Virtually all of the Carter, Holley and Stromberg throttle shafts used on Mopars of the '40s through '80s are between 1/4" and 5/16" diameter. Think the Carter BBS and BBD are 5/16" or so; Stromberg WA and WW are a little smaller. The first two years of Holley 1920 ('62-'63) might be a little larger than 5/16".

Karl-what are your thoughts on retrofitting Rulon-J bushings rather than the traditional brass or bronze?
Author:  gearhead [ Thu Jun 23, 2005 12:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
Dan:

Those look like they'd prbably work well, if they are firm enough to be press fit. But oilite bushings are cheap, easy, and proven. To be honest, unless your shafts are really bad it doesn't really make much difference. All engines need air to run, and with a cam, we even deliberately add air bypass to get more (Q-jets have this built in). So as long as the shaft is not so loose as to cause the blades to settle into various different positions upon returning to idle (causing changing idle speeds from signal to signal) the air leaking past the loose shaft will just be incorporated in the idle screw adjustment and a change to tighter bushings won't be noticed.

That said, I always bush my own for the extra precision...and...because most factory style carbs have very little true surface area for bearing contact. The baseplates are machined oversize except for an 1/8" or so right near the throttle blades. I don't know about these carbs, but many are that way. So when I install bushings, the surface area gets increased so much that wear and tear should never be an issue again.

Those bearings are interesting, but I just don't do enough anymore to look into changing.

Karl...ps...I can do 1/4 and 5/16...I should have said 5/16 shaft above...I bore the base plate to 3/8" to install the bushing...sorry.

So if the shaft is larger than 5/16" like holley four barrel then what I said above applies.
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Thu Jun 23, 2005 5:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Virtually all of the Carter, Holley and Stromberg throttle shafts used on Mopars of the '40s through '80s are between 1/4" and 5/16" diameter. Think the Carter BBS and BBD are 5/16" or so; Stromberg WA and WW are a little smaller. The first two years of Holley 1920 ('62-'63) might be a little larger than 5/16".

Karl-what are your thoughts on retrofitting Rulon-J bushings rather than the traditional brass or bronze?
If I need to rebush (yay, that's sounds akward) a carb, I use delrin. God I love delrin, they should give me free stock, I use it and promote it all over the world :)
Author:  blue195 [ Fri Jun 24, 2005 1:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
....
Author:  emsvitil [ Fri Jun 24, 2005 2:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
Id rather say .25" or .3125" myself..................

Actually for small stuff I prefer metric.......... (under 6-7mm) you don't get those nasty 32's or 64's they like to throw at you.............
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Jun 24, 2005 3:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Myeaaah, c'mon. It's good brain exercise to have to remember that 23/64 is slightly larger than 11/32 is slightly larger than 5/16 is slightly larger than 1/4" . :-)

That said, an editor in a photography magazine made an excellent point about a year ago: Why doesn't anyone make a decimal inch ruler, that is, one on which each inch is divided into ten equal parts?
Author:  emsvitil [ Fri Jun 24, 2005 3:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
That said, an editor in a photography magazine made an excellent point about a year ago: Why doesn't anyone make a decimal inch ruler, that is, one on which each inch is divided into ten equal parts?

I've got one............... 18" steel ruler :mrgreen:

1/10
1/12
1/16 & 1/32 plus cards... 140 per inch
5/32 (have no idea what that's used for)
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Fri Jun 24, 2005 7:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:

That said, an editor in a photography magazine made an excellent point about a year ago: Why doesn't anyone make a decimal inch ruler, that is, one on which each inch is divided into ten equal parts?
They do. I have one in my tool box. On one side it has 32's and 64ths. The other side is 50ths and 100ths. it is a "machinist" ruler.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Jun 24, 2005 8:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
50ths and 100ths is close, but not what I'm after.
Author:  blue195 [ Fri Jun 24, 2005 8:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
>>>
Author:  slantvaliant [ Mon Jun 27, 2005 12:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
This is the "decimal inch" 6" ruler I prefer. (Pickett 33E)
Yes, I am bilingual in measuring systems - I use whichever suits my purpose and audience.

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