I'm brand new here and forgive me if I just jump in and ask for help without having any expertise to offer in return. I don't know the flavor of this forum so I hope this is OK.
We just took over this truck that once belonged to my nephew and to my father before that. It is to become my sons first vehicle and it's in pretty solid shape. We just had it inspected after struggling to pass the emissions test but now that inspection is good for two years I would like to remove as much of the emissions equipment as possible, or whatever is necessary to get the truck to run smooth and not stall at idle. I don't expect he'll still be running it when the next inspection is due and my goal is to un-choke this vehicle to the extent that I can. There is an air pump, and a bunch of other vacuum hoses, filters, etc. and it boggles my mind how the thing runs at all. Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much.
John Gov.

Poor idle, sounds like the EGR valve is stuck open. It's the little thingy on the end of the manifold assembly.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Jeb, Is that EGR something I can just eliminate or do I need to replace it?
JG

You can probably just take it off and scrape off the carbon deposits, those things are pretty pricey now. Eliminating it will cause mucho spark knock, especially with that Holley 1945 that is set on the lean side from the factory.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Thanks. I need to get a manual for this truck but can you tell me if I should be looking for this EGR on the exhaust or intake manifold and kind of which end should I be looking at.

I found the ECR, removed it, cleaned it up. It seems to be working fine. Truck still runs like crap. Too bad, it's a good solid truck except for the fuel/emissions problem. I've got almost $800 into it and I'm not going any deeper. I'll probably donate it unless I can get some money for it as is.
Thanks for your help.
John Gov.

Can you give us the spec's on it? If you're going to donate it, here's my address....
I would say that if the truck is overall mechanically sound, your investment will be moreso in the time you put into it, not necessarily the money. Do get the FSM. Don't arbitrarily pull parts off that you think it can do without. My truck has the air pump also. The only reason I would consider removing it is because the shaft is slightly bent which wobbles the belt. If you do take anything off, please keep the parts for the next owner as they will be required to have all that emissions equipment when they get it inspected.

Taking all the pollution stuff off is very tempting, but it rarely fixes the problem. I have a 1985 d-150 that is now running very well. I wish I had some of the emissions stuff that the previous owner ripped off. (we have yearly emissions inspections)

Anyway, what I wanted to say was give you some direction on cheap repair.

My first suggestion is to finish up the tune up. Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, oil change, fuel filter, PCV valve. I bet you've already done most of that stuff, so shouldn't really cost much to finish the job properly.

Next, you'll want to check for vacuum leaks. This is very common on these motors and will cause poor idle, overheating, and general crummy performance. Inspect all the vacuum lines for cracks or incorrect termination (just hanging for no reason) Also, with the engine running, spray choke/carb cleaner along the intake manifold gaskets. It the idle increases, you have found a leaking gasket. This is very common on the slant sixes long manifolds. Repairing that leak will show great improvement. The gaskets are cheap if you don't mind replacing them yourself and a good tutorial is available to guide you through. Check out the articles section of this site.

I have lots of other suggestions, but I think you will make great progress if you can complete the steps I've offered.

Slant sixes can be very strong and dependable motors with just a little care. Hope you will find time to make it right.

If you are still wanting to remove the computer and pollution controls after the repairs I have made, I can instruct you on how to do so, but I doubt you will be impressed with the change. The computers on the 1985 models are safely tucked under the fender and are reasonably efficient and reliable for normal use.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Thanks for the advice and the tips. I talked to another mechanic who came highly recommended as a slant six expert. He also advised against removing the emissions equipment as not a solution to the problem and felt confident that he could either get it running right or advise me on what it will need to be put right.
Prior to inspection I asked my local shop mechanic to see what was needed for inspection and to see if they could get it running straight. Compression was 150, 150, 150, 140, 135, 150
They replaced ignition wires, distributor cap, rotor, timed it and adjusted the carburator.
There was a manifold gasket leak so I had them replace it. Three hours labor at $65 per hour and the $20 gasket and there is still a slight exhaust leak. I was pretty disapointed in the shop for not fixing it right, since the labor to pull it down again is the larger cost. The truck sort of ran OK but you could be overcome with CO just standing near the truck. She was off the charts for hydrocarbons, etc.
I then brought it to a certified emissions technician who spent a couple of hours over a few days and tweaked it until he got it to pass emissions. It actually ran half decent for a day or two and now when I take the truck out and try it I'm having to feather and coax her home.
I'm going to try this one last guy. He's a big Dodge man. He seemed pretty confident of being able to figure it out, he runs a first class shop, and is very familiar with the slant six.
I've got almost $800 into this "free" truck and if I can get it right for not too much more it will be a good first vehicle for my 16 year old son. My concern is that we have something that no one has been able to put a finger on and I'll be continually chasing this problem and towing the kid home. I've been through all that on my own; sure hate to begin another generation of roadside frustration from breakdowns.
John Gov.

It can be very expensive to repair anything if you don't do the work for yourself. If you have no desire to tinker, you may not like anything so old.

I frequently remind myself of the cost of a comperable NEW truck. This puts your $800 into perspective. My only problem with my truck has been the busted up radiator leaking several times. I finally have a NEW rad. I've never been towed home yet in the 2 years I've been working on it and driving it almost every day.

I think I am pretty handy compared to most people, so I can understand that something that's 20 years old might not seem like a good solution for someone who is not.

In 2001 I deceided that my wife needed something more reliable than another of my old beaters (I've owned many) We purchased a 2001 Kia Rio. Don't ever buy a 2001 Kia Rio. We've had it into the deal many times due to a stalling problem. Each time, the dealer has dismissed the problem as some trivial item (which is rarely covered under the 10 year warrenty for some reason ). A day or a week later, the problem returns. We are currently stuck in a LEMON law fight because the car won't pass emissions and the dealership doesn't know why. It sits on the street (while I still have to make payments on it) and my wife drives my truck at the moment.

New or old, cars can be trouble. At least with my old dodge, I can talk to someone and they will know how to fix it. Also, those trucks are tanks! Make him wear his seatbelt, and he'll survive his first couple of teenage blunders with all his parts attached. Just remind him not to hit any Kias, those things are death traps.

Sorry for the long rant.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Yeah, I know it cost big money to have the work done. Some jobs are just beyond my facilities or just too depressing, like exhaust work or removing gas tanks. I've been paying $65 per hour to diagnos and fix the problem because I thought these guys were professionals. It's a single barrel six cylinder, how complicated can it be? Quite complicated it seems. Well tomorrow is my last shot at this. We'll see if expert #3 can figure it out. I've taken on some pretty big jobs but I always know what it is I am fixing. This thing is just a plain mystery and it's really got me pist.
John Gov.

Some of you will want to know this. The whole problem with the Dodge pickup was that carbon from the emissions system got into the jets. I had a real Dodge guy take it in, he rebuilt the carburator and found the carbon. He disconnect the carbon canister from the line and the truck runs fine now.

IIRC, carbon canisters are available new from the dealer still. You probably want to replace it, you'll notice way too much fuel vapor smell around the truck when you shut it down, and if you just capped the hoses leading to the carb bowl and fuel tank, you'll proabaly have problems with flooding as well due to pressure build-up.

To keep the carbon where it belongs, mount the canister vertically (if its horizontal now), and also ALWAYS keep the air filter clean. The only time there's a big vacuum that can suck carbon up into the float bowl is when you open the throttle and the air cleaner is causing a lot of restriction.

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