I'm beginning to collect parts for an A-body 8-3/4 and would like opinions on axles.

I have the housing, but need to pick up everything else.

Since I need to do something with axles to get the big bolt pattern, I'm debating which way to go. I could buy a complete C-body rear end to get the misc parts I need and then have the axles re-splined, or I can order new, custom A-body axles from one of the national companies.

If I buy new, should I get them with green bearings? I've heard good and bad, but since I don't abuse my Valiant, I suspect they would work just fine.

If I re-spline, has anyone had them done for less than the $150 I was quoted?

I hod a pair of C-body axles cut down and resplined by Moser for about that price several years ago for my '65 Barracuda.

One thing to be aware of is that the C axles have a thicker hub flange on them and it pushes the wheels way out. With a narrow A-body like yours if you go to say a 7" wide wheel you will need at least 4.5" of backspacing minimum to make the tire fit and not rub the fenders. It would be less of a problem with a Wagon and the full circle wheel cutouts but yours are tight.

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"Former Owner" of '65 Barracuda, 225, Auto, MP 2bbl intake, MP cam, Dutra Duals. Presently Moparless.

I had Moser cut and spline a set of E-body axles. It was about 4 years ago and at that time it was $85. They also installed green bearings and put in long studs for another $90.

If you use C or E body axles you will also have to have B.C, or E body brakes. The end of the axle is longer and A body brakes will not work.

You can also have your A body axles and drums redrilled to 4.5.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I don't have any of the brake parts yet, or the original SBP axles, so the redrilling option is not there.

Am I correct to assume that new Yukon axles for an A-body are the same as the originals, except with the LBP?

Would I need to find drums that are unique to A-bodies and have them redrilled?

I guess I need to check out the brake situation before ordering anything. I thought they would be interchangable on all 8-3/4 setups.

That is what I do. I have both 4 and 4 1/2 inch redrilled "A" body axles, and my drums have both patterns. That gives me a choice of wheels, just by changing axles. I have a drill jig to drill my own axles. I use the screw in studs. One problem with the srew in studs is, the head of the stud will hit the park brake strut bar. It will be neccessay to cut the heads down on the studs, if you want to have an E-brake.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225