ok, in search of the lost nuts....
went to a boneyard on a "what the hell" whim. lo, hath they a slant complete with most coveted supersix intake, and a many ribbed exhaust manifold. crappy part is, i just blew 50 bucks on another 1bbl intake and exhaust. now he was annoyed with his work at the yard, and let me HAVE the studs and nuts, and (much thicker than my 1967) triangle thingamabobs. trouble is, the studs and coned nut and washer came off as it did on my head : the cone nut stayed attached, and the stud came out. i got them all. is it safe to put them in my head this way, still attached, or must the stud go in first, and then the nut ( the two end ones)?
i WANT to get that super six intake and exhaust still bolted together on that engine, but for 75 bucks?? what do you guys think?


p.s. they "said" it ran great when they pulled it from the car. just sitting on the ground now. i read about the kickdown linkage being different, and that's why i left it there. it looked kinda beat. huge cable that sized down smaller around the engine in a coupling. it may have been unrelated. thers another slant in a truck in the yard with its 2bbl intake missing, but theres something going down to the transmission. maybe be able to peice the two together to make a solid super six swap? different angle pics anyone?

from the super six article.
"You will have to either use the metal fuel line from the donor car (between the fuel pump and the carb) or fabricate your own. "
dont suppose theres any possibility of running a super six carb line to my current 67 dart feul filter?

No, and if you're smart, you'll put in all new studs while you have everything all apart. It will save you much grief and heartache later.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

well, ive been to every auto parts, nut and bolt specialist, and machine shop in town, and they were all left going "uuhhh durrrr". if the length is right, then the thread pitch is wrong. if the threads are right, then the length is wrong, and in either case, the bald aread of the studs was never right.
as for the coned (and sliced end) nuts, and the washer..... everyone was looking at me like i was from outer space. "wow, thats some fancy nuts you got there. a specialty item. and that washer?? you wont get it, unless we make them for you"

Need studs? Dorman number 675-094 works great. It's a little long, but that shouldn't be a problem. (actually makes the lower ones easier)

For sure use all new studs.
I got mine from a NAPA and had to just go through all the bins to find the right ones. Check each one as people don't always put them back in the right bin.
Take your old studs and nuts to get the correct threads and lengths.
Make sure that as much of the stud is threaded as possible. You want the stud to go into the head as far as it can, not just to the end of the threads. Use plenty of anti-sieze and work it into the hole by screwing the stud in and out a few times.
Double nut them to install.
Re-use the acorn nut and dished washer. Put the old stud in a vise if you have to.

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aed
/6>V8

CStryker's response is dead-on-balls accurate. Longer=better!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.