I started my new engine for
my 67 dart. I got A 70 block.
My plan was to :
bore .080 with .100 off the deck.
.540 lift cam. The head is going
to be ported with 360 valves and
.120 cut off..
Anybody got any other idears

Make sure to get the rotating assembly balanced, rods resized, crank ground, magnaflux the rods/crank/head and more if affordable. Set rod and main clearances to 0.002-0.0025". Get lower tension oil rings.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Lou. I know about that stuff, I done that with
the first motor. I would like to know how to
lighen the crank and what would be the advantage
would be? What is the ( and more) ??

Always buy your pistons and ring set before you bore. Measure every piston and bore each cylinder to fit a selected piston for that hole.

Who's cam? what is the duration and overlap? A cam needs to be matched to the compression ratio to get proper cylinder pressure.

Small Block Mopar valves are to long for the SL6, you can get "drop-in" oversize valves from SI Valves ore use other brands if you need to replace the valve guides. (go with a small guide size)

To lighten a SL6 crank, cut-off all the factory "balance bobs" and grind smooth/deburr all the forging seams. Try to take even amounts off all sides of the crank to help rebalancing.

Time spent porting the head gains more power then time spent lightening the crank.
DD

DD. the com will be comp. cam,
and the duration and overlap will be
figgered out when I get the exact
compression ratio.
The small block valves got to be
cut off and new lock groves cut,
then back cut to fit. I am useing
318 valves now intake 1.78 and
exaust 1.50 and Terry Littlejohn
is useing the 360 valves.
the drop in valves here cost $55
each and the 360 valves only cost
$120 to be cut to fit.
Is there any more tricks I can use
to get more power???