Hey there, I've installed my lokar kickdown with this mod:
works great, extra "pep"on shifting, downshifts from 3 into 2nd when approaching a stop or cornering, shifts firm but not harsh and goes up and down better.
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| trick lokar installation https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14482 |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Fri Sep 23, 2005 6:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | trick lokar installation |
Hey there, I've installed my lokar kickdown with this mod: works great, extra "pep"on shifting, downshifts from 3 into 2nd when approaching a stop or cornering, shifts firm but not harsh and goes up and down better. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Sep 23, 2005 10:36 am ] |
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H'mmm. I'm not sure I understand the mod...explain? |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Fri Sep 23, 2005 12:41 pm ] |
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 The modification consists in: I lined 2 centering plates in delrin, so the preloading spring won't chew up thru the lokar fragile plastic head (the most weak point in that cable if you ask me). Later on I removed the disk that goes on the lokar aluminium stop that has a tapered end. The purpose of this preloading ring is having more push (actually pull) at the kickdown lever so the shifting would occur at higer line pressure. If you WOT the spring compresses and you can achieve stiffer kickdown regulation and still be able to wot. In former setups I've had, when the trans shifted (up and down) the way I like, the carb wouldn't go wot cuz the kickdown lever was stopping it. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Sep 23, 2005 12:43 pm ] |
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Oh, an overtravel spring! That is very clever, I like it. |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Fri Sep 23, 2005 1:13 pm ] |
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Quote: Oh, an overtravel spring! That is very clever, I like it.
Thanks   ain't mean that I give up on the dual 1bbl setup I'm planning... just got sick of the lame power my engine was putting out with the 1bbl, and the mileage wasn't great neither... so as a middle step I went with this 2300. As you may read, I sold a penin carb and now I'm full of regrets trying to make a 2300 perform anywhere closer to that one. Still reengineering the dual 1bbl manifold's linkage and rods.... you know I'm posting my progress as soon as there's any 
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:11 pm ] |
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Quote: Oh, an overtravel spring! That is very clever, I like it.
Wonder how hard it would be to have an overtravel spring on the normal stock setup so you can get the tranny to downshift with less throttle and not worry about screwing up the linkage when you actually goto WOT.............
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:36 pm ] |
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Quote: Wonder how hard it would be to have an overtravel spring on the normal stock setup so you can get the tranny to downshift with less throttle and not worry about screwing up the linkage when you actually goto WOT.............
That would require major fabrication according to my previous attempts. (I mean, major compared to the lil spring that I had to add to the lokar cable... wouldn't be too much of a pain in the ass I think)
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:43 pm ] |
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You made me look at the FM............ My linkage adjustment is an telescopic lower rod. Might not be too bad with that set up. Either modify the rod with a spring or make a new rod with a spring................... Hmmmmm..... something else to put on the to do list. |
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| Author: | Avenger2040 [ Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Question Here |
What WOT means? |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Question Here |
Quote: What WOT means?
Wide Open Throttle |
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| Author: | Avenger2040 [ Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:59 pm ] |
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Hooo!! thanks emsvitil |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Sun Sep 25, 2005 8:15 am ] |
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this would be one way to do it  Just 2 lined custom pieces (small lathe and small craftmanship required) or finding close enough hollow stock (steel, aluminium, brass, whatever) a tap and one locking screw one spring (stiff enough to push the KD lever but soft enough for compress when top travel is reached and not so stiff that would put relevant stress over throttle cable/rod... you don´t wanna stomp on it just to find out that you screwed the linkage and you have to go back home on your choke if you´re lucky and have a manual one )this would be the non-pretencious setup  just finding the hollow stock, taping the lock screw on the original rod side and finding the correct I.D. spring (just big enough to fit over the original rod and slide free)
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| Author: | 1969ron [ Sun Sep 25, 2005 9:35 pm ] |
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hi, arg-slant, does your throttle shaft "float-free spin" where spring is attached or does spring hook stay fixed thru throttle movement? ron |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Mon Sep 26, 2005 4:12 am ] |
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Quote: hi, arg-slant, does your throttle shaft "float-free spin" where spring is attached or does spring hook stay fixed thru throttle movement? ron
Hey ron not sure I'm follow your question... but anyway I'll try to answer. Please reask if I'm not answering your specific inquire.The "overtravel" spring I installed, works this way (you notice I called it "pre-load"? ) here's why: Kickdown lever is always with a li'l tension, not completely off (or "relaxed"  ) The spring accomodates the throttle position by pulling that lever to the top of its travel (wich in ny car would be at WOT) before you're actually wotting. In a normal pushrod linkage (stocker type) doing this would mean that A) the throttle can't be opened further, B) you end up bending parts if your fot still tries to WOT, C) the kickdown lever ends up disconnected C) you break your accel cable. With this spring, that's stiff enough to pull the lever till it reaches the top of its travel, you get the trans to "read" more throttle pressure at lower actual openings, resulting in firmer shifts and crisper downshifts. Once you reached top kickdown travel and you still have room for flooring it, the spring would compress permitting the carb to open throttle completely. This same explanation applies to the other type of overtravel sketchs that I have throwed in. On another note I may add that the original rod remains not connected to the kickdown arm that goes under the maifolds, you connect the new piece there and then the rod (that should be shortened some) connects to that hollow piece thru the spring and stop piece that you slide over it. I Know I'm not as clear as I should be... forgive me guys, it's early in the morning, I'm a musician (we hate mornings) and English ain't my birth language
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