I have a quick question, i have a slant six that has 264 cam, headwork, engine back exhaust and some other stuff. About the only thing im missing is the electrical distributer, im still running the basic distributer with points, and so my question is can some one tell me step by step how to advance my timming? Thanks alot


Mike

Help anyone???

This is an excellent question for a repair manual or for a local friend who can show you in person. Haynes manuals tend to have less advanced information, but better newbie diagrams and such.

Do you own a timing light? If not, go to Sears and get an "advance" timing light with the dial on the back. Then you can ask the question again...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

A couple of the other guys on this forum are helping me put together a HUGE article on timing. I confess that it is not very helpful right now due to the lack of pictures and organization. Here is a link, but you won't get your answers for a few more weeks while we iron out the mess into something useful.

As for buying a timing light, I've got a surefire method to check advance with a standard timing light without the dial back timing knob, so get what you can afford and simply read the instructions.

Turn the crankshaft till the timing mark is set to 0 on the timing tab. Now scribe a line on the front damper at the 10 degrees after position (or turn the crank backwards till the timing mark is at 10 before and scribe a line at 0. Now turn it another 10 degrees backwards and scribe another line. Now attach the light and start the motor. When the second scribe line times up to the 10 before on the timing tab, you've got 30* of advance. This is almost as easy to read as a dial back light and only takes a minute to get prepared.

More later.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Yes, it's not a very clean article. You'll also get a lot out of reading the lean burn to electronic ignition article, when I can find that link I'll post it here as well.

http://www.potentialtech.com/pmoran/dist-9-22-05.pdf

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

most guys will chuckle at this-- I have not used a timing light on my slant yet-- 3+ years --any how if your car runs fairly good- no vacuum leaks & such --loosen the 7/16 bolt- (should be able to turn dist -- make sure it's snug)

now start your car---- let is warm up---- now turn your dist--(motor running & listen to the motor-- speeds up (advance) slows downs -(retard)-- be sure to block off the vac- advance unit- also watch motor movement- smoother is better(this should be slight but noticable differences)

most likely you will run out of advance on the slot showing-- this will require more work-- under the dist-- opposite the side you've been working on is another adjustment for advance/retard-- same 7/16 bolt --just a pain to loosen tighten--

anyhow you do not want your motor to ping when advancing-- play around to find the best idle for your car- should be a slight smoother idle -engine doesn't move nearly as much!!

Once you 've played with this adjust your carb to the highest/smoothest idle at this setting-- have fun!!!!

1 more thing petronix or electronic makes an easier starting/smoother idling vehicle-- don't know about performance

Yes, with experience and a careful ear, you can do without a timing light, but....

I don't suggest that it's a good way to learn and it's pretty hard to get a feel for it compared to good instructions on using a timing light. How do you know what your total advance is set to when adjusting by ear?

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

I hardly used a timing light for the first 10 years I worked on cars, just did it by ear. It works fine, but takes more work! If you have a light, you can get close, then tune by dragstrip times or pinging from there.

The biggest problem is that most stock dist timing curve suck for anything performance, and aren't really that great for stockers either. I've found the best stock dists are the late 70s electronic ignition dists (not fixed lean burn).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I just drive the car- daily-- so far it has never let me down-- the little 170-- just keeps on chugging-- in fact it is being retired this week (redneck rebuild swapping in a lower mileage 225)!

As for total timing --I've never worried about it yet -when I put the next motor in I might try the whole mapping route-- with a dist recurve & such-- in fact I didn't check the springs used-- it an nos Ebay piece from a 71 225-- petronix modified & works great !! 21mpg -- 70mph -- not too bad
Later-!!

an old timer i used to work with had a habit of using what he called a "power tune" method of setting timing. he would block the wheels and get an assisatant to sit in the car and power brake @stall speed while he stood to the side and twisted the dist until the motor pinged with the vac advance disconnected. then he would simply back it off until the ping went away. i thought it was bs until he did it to my car and i rechecked it with a timing light. it was pretty much where i had it.

-james

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To me, setting the timing without a light is like torquing head bolts without a torque wrench. Yes, it can be done with good results. It is, however, an acquired and perishable skill, and does not lend itself to consistency.
I'm reminded of an old mechanic I knew who diagnosed things by ear. The problem was that he couldn't hear anymore. It took a heck of a ping for him to detect it.
Use the light, note where you set it, and check the results. Adjust and repeat. Once it runs the way you want, check the timing and write it down.
That way, if you need to change something, you can come right back to where you were quickly.
If I were racing, I think I'd keep one of those logbooks, building a database for adjustments under various conditions.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Awesome thank you so much for all the replies! SO first i will go out and get a timming light gun....does anyone know where to go to get on fairly cheap?

To get at the adjusting slot under the dizzy, just take it out.
Pop the cap, turn the crank till the rotor is pointing at high noon, remove the hold-down bolt, and pull the distributor body out.
Watch the rotor turn counter-clockwise as it comes out. This is due to the drive gear meshing. When you put it back in, be sure to turn the rotor back a little to account for this.
Turn the dizzy upside down and you'll see the other bolt for the adjustment.
This adjustment slot is alot more sensitive, it won't take much to get more advance/retard.
I like to clean off around the hold-down bolts and use a magic marker to locate the position for future reference. Just draw around the bolt head.

Just to add my 1/50th of a buck, I don't own a timing light, never used one on any of my vehicles, and managed 23.9 out of FURTHER on a road trip once at a steady 60mph.
"Timing lights? We ain't got no timing lights, we don't need no steenking..."

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aed
/6>V8