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Rear Oil Seal Installation!!
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Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Wed Oct 26, 2005 3:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Rear Oil Seal Installation!!

Can the rear oil seal be installed without removing the crank??



I want to press out original type rope seal and slide in a fel-pro rubber type.


Help - Ideas -thanks.




Greg

Author:  sandy in BC [ Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

It can be done ( I use a lantern packing tool).
I have seen the old packing removed with a small cork screw.
You can drive it part way with a drift and pull with pliers.

Putting in the new seal is easy.

Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Thu Oct 27, 2005 5:27 am ]
Post subject: 

thanks - will try later this week!


Greg

Author:  mcnoople [ Thu Oct 27, 2005 6:52 am ]
Post subject: 

They make a special tool just for this. The one I got years ago went under the name of sneaky pete. It had a tiny grenade pin looking corkscrew and a metal wire with a small grabber on the end. The problem with pulling rope seals with a screw is that the rope will tear where the screw goes into it. Good Luck

Author:  440_Magnum [ Thu Oct 27, 2005 8:55 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear Oil Seal Installation!!

Quote:
Can the rear oil seal be installed without removing the crank??



I want to press out original type rope seal and slide in a fel-pro rubber type.


Help - Ideas -thanks.




Greg

Look for a "Sneaky Pete" seal removal/installer tool at your local parts store. You won't need it as an installer, but its handy for removing the old one.

Personally, I've had pretty good luck using a flat punch to tap one end of the seal upward into the block and a drywall screw threaded iinto the other end of the upper half-seal to pull, while rotating the crank in the direction that you want it to come out. Don't pull TOO hard on the screw, because if you start pulling the seal apart you'll lose your spot to thread into. Tapping with the flat punch is great for breaking the old seal loose from the block so that the screw doesn't HAVE to pull so hard.

Once the old seal is out, run a soft flexible bottle brush (the kind used for cleaning oil passages in engine blocks) through the seal groove to get rid of any old seal, and follow that with a good blast of Brakleen or carb cleaner and compressed air to leave it spotless. The new neoprene seal goes easier than sh*t through a goose, so don't worry about that part of the job. Just be sure to coat the side that rides on the crank with engine oil, and also get the lip pointed TOWARD the "inside" of the engine.

Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sat Oct 29, 2005 3:03 pm ]
Post subject: 

Thanks! got it out with punch, drywall screw and pliers, new one went in easy, and also turned it a few degrees like DD suggested on the article.

Greg

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