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Fitting a hydraulic clutch cylinder to 64-66 a833
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15307		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  NewLancerMan [ Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:37 am ]
Post subject:  Fitting a hydraulic clutch cylinder to 64-66 a833
While I'm kicking around the idea of converting from automatic to manual shift, I'm also exploring installing a hydraulic clutch. While I've seen the kit keisler has, its beyond my price range.

I know that some other people have adapted theres, and I was just curious about it. I read that some of the early trucks had hydraulic clutches, so I thought I could get a measure of of the clutch fork throw/stroke and what kind of volume would be needed to make that happen, and try and match it up with an existing clutch. I thought about tryign to fabricate a bracket similar to something I saw on BBD.com

http://www.bigblockdart.com/clutch_bracket/clutch.shtml

What do you guys think? Any advice?

Also, does anyone know the actual throw of the clutch fork?

Thanks!

MJ
Author:  mopar_nocar [ Wed Dec 07, 2005 10:41 am ]
Post subject: 
i did something similar thing on a 59 ford p/u when i put a V8 in it. i used the factory ford slave and master and made a bracket for it. worked great.

with a little "work" you can get it done.

sb
Author:  mcnoople [ Wed Dec 07, 2005 10:52 am ]
Post subject: 
I believe mccleod makes a hyd. setup that can be converted.
Author:  NewLancerMan [ Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:03 am ]
Post subject: 
mopar_nocar do you have you have any pics? How did you end up mounting the slave?

Mcnoople, do you have any more info on the mcleod setup? My thought was to try and just use a stock clutch/slave setup (mopar or otherwise) to avoid the high prices for retrofit kit stuff. I looked at McLeod, but wasn't sure what application it was originally intended for.

Thanks

MJ
Author:  Guest [ Wed Dec 07, 2005 3:46 pm ]
Post subject:  hydraulic clutch etc
Hello,

You will see in a thread on this forum I was wrestling with the same problem on my '64 D100 a few months ago...and Dart270 turned me onto a hydraulic throwout bearing. The reason is because in my D100 the stock tranny was a 3 speed with fork on passenger side, and I was swapping to a A833OD wiht fork on driver side and the slave would not move readily given mounts and other frame impediments. So I got a Howe hydraulic throwout bearing and a Tilton 7/8 inch master cylinder and plumbed it through the 833 bellhousing's driver side hole with a stainless flex hose. Works like a champ on a stock 11 inch clutch with 122 tooth flywheel. I got the clutch and flywheel off this forum and the bearing and tilton master cylinder off ebay. My old Mopar brake master cyl was beginning to fail, too and while I like rebuilding them, if I had to take it off, I figured to put on a new cylinder. Altogether about $150 in the setup. Not bad for new clutch, master cyl and used throwout bearing. Not bad that, is, given how many hours it may have taken me to swap that original slave and get it to work....and I have what I think is a better system now. The stroke length on the master cyl is 1 1/6 inch. If your brake pedal make for longer stroke, just fix up a pedal stop.

cheers,
rock
'64D100
Author:  mopar_nocar [ Wed Dec 07, 2005 4:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
i am 100% in favor of the hydraulic throw out bearing. especially with the info available from other members about what parts to use.

however, i used a 7/16" stud on my bell for the top bracket on my 59. i used a piece of angle iron for the bottom bolt of the slave....it worked for a year before i got out of the Ford business. anyway, i don't have any pics and all i am really giving you is a vote of confidence that it can be done.

i did the same thing with an NP435 bell and a jeep slave, but never used it in a car.

used a willwood (pull type) slave cyl. in a 2.5 ton delivery truck (GMC) and its ok.

essentially, i am too stubborn to buy parts when i have something laying around to try....but if i was as smart as i am pig headed, i'd use the hydraulic throw out bearing!

sb
Author:  Dart270 [ Wed Dec 07, 2005 5:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
Get yourself a PAW catalog and they have hydro TOB kits for many trannys for $300 or so.

Lou
Author:  1966 dart wagon [ Thu Dec 08, 2005 5:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
just wondering but what is the point or advantage over a mechanical clutch, they both press on the clutch :?
Author:  mcnoople [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 6:02 am ]
Post subject: 
Hydraulic don't need adjusting, have much better clearance compared to mech, and are relatively straight forward. There are a lot of variations for mech clutch linkage like body style, engine type (sb,bb,/6) and each style uses unique parts some of which are wear items.
Author:  rock [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 6:27 am ]
Post subject:  here are some other reasons
Hello 66

Yeh, the both press the same place, but....I would gladly have used my existing fork and slave if I could have. When you get into changing things from stock, you will get combinations of bellhousings and trannys that begin to make you consider if changing Z bars is worth the trouble, first, and if you do it, will it last. Also, as in my case I could change to a hydro more easily than I could adapt the stock. Now, I could have done an adaptation, but I know that as soon as the hydro is in place it will work. I am reasonably sure it would take me several fits and refits to get the stock adapted and working.
And, even though I have always had a hydraulic clutch, the hydro bearing feels even better. And, of course if all the above is only rationalizing, one can use a hydro because it is fun to mess with and is a good reason to go lay under your vehicle!
rock
'64d100
Author:  NewLancerMan [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 9:17 am ]
Post subject: 
yes, what rock said. I'm not sure I can get all the pieces to work together since my car never came equiped with a 833, and apparently the linkages, etc are different from 60-62 than 63-66. So I'm trying to figure out exactly how I might make it all work.

MJ
Author:  dakight [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 12:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
When you talk about the "Z Bar" do you mean the clutch torque shaft? That's a about a 10 inch or so piece of tube with arms at each end to transfer the motion of the clutch pedal to the clutch release fork. If that's what you're talking about I went through about 3 of them in my first Valiant before I finally got some large steel washers and reinforced the welds. The arms would tear away from the tube, as I recall usually on the bell housing end. Hydraulic linkage would have eliminated that problem.
Author:  mcnoople [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 1:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
Z-bar is chebby for torque shaft they are the same thing. If you are breaking clutch parts frequently I would look very closely at the motor mounts. You might have a engine alignment issue or do you have an extra heavy pressure plate?
Author:  dakight [ Fri Dec 09, 2005 1:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
Oh, that was 35 years ago. I haven't had a problem with my current car but then, I haven't driven it very much and I'm just starting a rebuild during which I'm going to swap in an automatic.
Author:  mpgFanatic [ Wed Dec 21, 2005 11:41 am ]
Post subject:  mine, too.
Quote:
Z-bar is chebby for torque shaft they are the same thing. If you are breaking clutch parts frequently I would look very closely at the motor mounts. You might have a engine alignment issue or do you have an extra heavy pressure plate?
My stock 170 Valiant appears to have good motor mounts and a stock pressure plate. The torque shaft arm ripped off the tube; I created a reinforcing strap and had my local muffler shop weld it on. I'm guessing that the failure is just a factor of metal fatigue after 40 years of use. Even with a wimpy clutch spring, that's still an awful lot of stress on those welds on the tube.

- Erik
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