I have Just finished my /6 resto of 14years. Soon after starting the break in process I found a Leak at the rear main seal. First time a stedy drip drip drip while the car is Fast idle while I charged the A/C. 45 min later 2/3 of a quart low on oil. Then after I pulled the dust sheild off the tran the oil would only leak on very high RPM, not at Idle. Today after 10 mile drive the oil would leak at idle. I did install a High volume oil pump at the time of the rebuild. Is this H.V.pump overpowering the seal? What is going on? Does this thing need need time to wear in to seal up? Any Advice. I dont want to take things apart I just got them together.

What Kind of seal is It?

Rope type (ols Style)

Neoprene Rubber (new style)


Also Check this link:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/gasket ... n-seal.htm

some nice tips there From Dr. Dodge.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

The seal Is the Rope type. Thanks for the link, It was very helpful.

Ok, Rope type seal,

I havent had any experience with the rope seal, except I have removed them on old motors.

Can anyone help Here??
SlantSixDan usually has a soultion up his sleve for us.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Well, brainstorming time. I can't see that the oil pump has any direct effect on the leak, since the oil is not pressurized next to the seal, is simply dripping past it. If the seal is being overpowered by pressure, that pressure would be coming from the crankcase, either from excessive blowby or else the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system isn't sucking the vapors sufficiently. (If the PCV is working, the crankcase should be in a slight state of vacuum, actually.) One of the classic signs of excess crankcase pressure is a dipstick popping out of the the tube a little. If you're seeing the leak only during idle, is it possible you've connected the PCV to a ported vacuum source instead of manifold vacuum?

If you'd said neoprene seal, I would wonder if it had been installed backwards. There are small serrations at an angle that tend to force oil IN as the crank rotates (sort of like the effect of a fan blade pitch.) But for the rope-type seal, I can't see where that would be a problem.

None of this seems as likely as the possibility that someone gave you the wrong seal, or that it got installed with a very slight gap between the upper and lower halves... let's hope not. Tearing down a fresh rebuild is painful to the ego.

And it's also possible that the leak is coming from somewhere else-- this engine's got an oil galley plug in the rear end, behind the flywheel, right? Sorry I don't know; it's been awhile since I've had one apart.

- Erik

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Lots of early Valiants and Barracudas have crossed my path.
Also a handful of other toys for variety now and then.

The mistake I made the first time I installed a rope seal was to cut it to length. The entire length of the seal should be compressed into the groove. Then when the main caps are torqued down it will form a tight seal. If you cut it off it might not ( and my case did not ) seal properly.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Just out of curiosity, why did you install a rope seal instead of a rubber one? Is there some advantage to it beyond being stock?

If you're asking me, it was what came in the gasket kit at the time (early 70s) and if the rubber seal was available I didn't know about it. Rope seals were used for many years and work well if properly installed. Rubber seals are easier to change if they fail and given a choice I would opt for the rubber.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.