Slant Six Forum :: temp & fuel gauge failure

There are mounting bolts under the black plastic cover on the bottom of the column where the dash and column meet. Take out the four phillips head screws and you should see three main bolts/nuts holding the column up, I think they are 1/2 or 7/16, pull those out or loosen them as needed, I've always had to take mine out, you might get lucky. there are also three bolts that hold the column to the firewall, you may need to remove them also. Careful as you pull the cluster out, the wires will be a little forgiving but the speedo cable will more then likely be brittle, it's a slip fit with a locking tab, push the tab down and pull straight back on the cable, it'll be tough, but it'll come off. Try not to wiggle the cable to much or you'll break the connector.

Author:	Draco_Scaline [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 3:49 pm ]
Post subject:	temp & fuel gauge failure
I read the article about the Instrument Cluster Regulator being the cause of temp and fuel gauge reading zero (wich is the proplem I'm having) I bought a new one but nothing..is it because i didn't push it in flush with the circuit? or is something else wrong?

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 5:07 pm ]
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Your instrument cluster may have an inadequate ground, or the old regulator may have stuck in the "on" position, sending 12V to the gauges and frying them both

Author:	Draco_Scaline [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 5:36 pm ]
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nice... any way to check for eitheir? and dose the regulator need to be flush against the insturment cluster, or dose it stick out some?

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:02 pm ]
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The regulator may stick out slightly from the rear of the circuit board. To check for ground, remove the instrument cluster, find one of its ground points (trace the copper paths on the circuit board until you find the ones that all come together and go to one of the mounting screws, for instance) and run a test wire from that point to a known-good ground. See if the gauges work when you turn on the ignition key. To check for fried gauges, you can put an ohmmeter across the fuel and then across the temp gauge prongs. If you show no continuity (infinite resistance) they're fried. If you show some resistance, they're probably good but could still be heat-damaged.

Author:	Draco_Scaline [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:18 pm ]
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ok dumb question how do i remove the insterment panel ? I removed all the scews on the front, and it comes out some, but something is holding it in.

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temp & fuel gauge failure https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16733	Page 1 of 1

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:26 pm ]
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What're we working on? (year, model)

Author:	Draco_Scaline [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:35 pm ]
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1968 dodge dart, not a bad car just needs work..

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:37 pm ]
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Steering column has to be lowered slightly. Also, you've probably got wiring connected to switches (wiper, lights) holding it in.

Author:	Draco_Scaline [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:44 pm ]
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how do i lower the steering columb?

Author:	Lars [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 7:22 pm ]
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There are mounting bolts under the black plastic cover on the bottom of the column where the dash and column meet. Take out the four phillips head screws and you should see three main bolts/nuts holding the column up, I think they are 1/2 or 7/16, pull those out or loosen them as needed, I've always had to take mine out, you might get lucky. there are also three bolts that hold the column to the firewall, you may need to remove them also. Careful as you pull the cluster out, the wires will be a little forgiving but the speedo cable will more then likely be brittle, it's a slip fit with a locking tab, push the tab down and pull straight back on the cable, it'll be tough, but it'll come off. Try not to wiggle the cable to much or you'll break the connector.

Author:	dakight [ Sun Mar 26, 2006 5:48 am ]
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Be sure to disconnect the battery first!

Author:	Patrick Devlin [ Sun Mar 26, 2006 8:12 am ]
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Quote: There are mounting bolts under the black plastic cover on the bottom of the column where the dash and column meet. Take out the four phillips head screws and you should see three main bolts/nuts holding the column up, I think they are 1/2 or 7/16, pull those out or loosen them as needed, I've always had to take mine out, you might get lucky. there are also three bolts that hold the column to the firewall, you may need to remove them also. Careful as you pull the cluster out, the wires will be a little forgiving but the speedo cable will more then likely be brittle, it's a slip fit with a locking tab, push the tab down and pull straight back on the cable, it'll be tough, but it'll come off. Try not to wiggle the cable to much or you'll break the connector. Just as he said. There are two multi pin "connectors," the speedo cable, and the ammeter nuts you have to remove to pull it out. I've always had to remove the bolts at the firewall in order to drop the column in my car.

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