I'm working on a recurve for the Hpak Duster and am having problems in town trying to find someone who will let me 'look through' their ignition parts manuals for a Mopar Vaccuum Advance module for a distributor....(or they are punching through the computer asking "what year car?"


I need a vacc. adv can that's 10-11 (20-22 deg crank adv)...and comes on in the 13-14"Hg range (12" = minimal to no advance)...

I bought a Borg Warner VC194 today (supposedly for a '73-74 Dodge) and it comes in at 12"+, but it doesn't have enough advance (my total at cruise is 44 degrees) and at slightly above Idle the timing goes from my 12BTDC initial to 2BTDC(until about 1500 rpm...then it goes to 20 degrees)...

I don't particularly like how this can adjusts (if I dial it down, it can come in at 14" like I want to but my vacc. adv. is a total of 10 crank deg.)...

You have any leads to a good source, web page, or ??? where I can get a part number and order it through my local mom and pop shop (which I just found out today is being bought out by some conglomerate )


Thanks, power is good, but getting the economy end of things dialed in is really tricky....

Much appreciated.

-D.Idiot

This maybe close enough...........

Wells CV3015
listed applications
Dodge Truck 70-73
Dodge 71-72
Plymouth 70-72

Has a 9.5 on the arm (19 crank) and is adjustable

Found the following by watching for arm movement

At minimum setting:

Starts 5.5" Ends 10.5"

kept tightening the screw, and the 5" range stayed constant. Quit testing when I got it to start at 14" and end at 19" (still had some adjustment left)


Got it at autozone

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I'll see if my local Autozone has that (not like I have a pile of OEM cans from various distributors at the moment...but some don't dial in so good, or are correct but only are stamped 6.5x)...


The perfect 'spec' for my needs are:

'Starts' at 13"....delivers about 10-11 dist degrees @ 14-15"

(anything 0-8" is pure acceleratiopn on my car, my cruise is 15-17...heavy loading/inclines occur within the 10-14 spec (at which point I need less vacc. and rely on total mech adv. only...)


I had a can installed that gave 52 total at cruise , '11x' but started at 10" and would not adjust up or down more than 1"...this made for some nice 'ping' going up a hill....

thanks,

-D.Idiot

I put up some specs Here.

Pretty sure I have some new vacuum cans of various spec in stock, myself!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I think I'll try VC-185 next and try to get it to 'end' above 12"...

Ed's can is the equivalent to the VC-188...


Keep me posted if you find something 'in the pile' that might be close to the spec.


THanks!


-D.Idiot

I'm getting ready to recurve a dist. for my newly rebuilt engine. I spent 15 minutes on the phone w/ Borg Warner today, and the conversation ended w/ the guy telling me that a complete section of their catalog was fairly useless. (Listed advance chracteristics, but not the important ones.) As soon as I can find a place to have the info faxed to, he said he'd get me complete datasheets for all the advance cans I wanted, but that's a project for later this week.

In the mean time I find myself contemplating the re-curve. The engine is running 9.25:1 compression. At the moment I just have my old dist. in, but I can only run 5 degrees of initial advance because it has a significant amount of mechanical. Because of this, I'm having to run premium to avoid pinging the heck out of it. The new dist. will have the 9r governor, so I hope to end up w/ about 10 degrees of initial advance, and then go from there.

My question is, should I plan on trying to dial this set-up in using "regular" unleaded (87 octane), or would I be better off just planning on running premium(94 octane)? Premium is only 20 cents more a gallon, so the cost of the gas isn't really an issue. (4 bucks a tank... I can deal for the little amount of driving I do.) It doesn't seem to me that running 87 octane is unreasonable; most modern engines run at least 9.5:1 and have no problems w/ 87 octane. But I also know the slant six head is mainly 1960's technology, and I'm not sure if that would have any effect on the situation.

AT 9.25:1 with no squish/quench to speak of in a slant6,

I'd use premium........


Side Note: Octane of premium in California is generally 91, so you might have a problem if you tune at 94. Think CA is lowest premium, but 92 is more common.

You can either tune at 92, then have the 94 be your ping prevention, or tune at 94 then back down 2 degrees off your ignition curve for safety.

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Shorten your mech advance curve so that initial is about 10 and final is 27-29. You should have no trouble running 87 with 9.25 comp. What cam are you running?

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ooh! JUMP on that before the guy gets transferred or reassigned or downsized or loses the info. If you need a right-now place for the info to be faxed, PM me and I'll give you my fax numbers. See if you can get all the \6 and smallblock V8 advance cans, maybe even the no-longer-available ones so that we can build a good database that's useful for current-production cans as well as the discontinued ones that can still be found at swap meets, on eBay, etc. I'm pretty sure Borg-Warner's ignition parts operations are merged with Echlin's, but not sure if BW uses the same part numbers. What does a BW advance can P/N look like?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'm running the Erson E470621. It's 220 duration at .050, 111 degree lobe center. As far as the dist., 10 initial w/ a 9r governor would make for 28, which should be about ideal, right? Or am I missing something?

You can "adjust" the total amount of vacuum advance by either epoxying washers (or other shim stock, but washers bond well because of the hole) under the stop to decrease total vacuum advance, or using a dremel with cut-off wheel to remove material to increase total vacuum advance. Spring tension (what RPM it kicks in) as you know, can usually be adjusted with a small Allen wrench through the hose nipple.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Coupla notes for cstryker: My Valaint is 9.25 with a Comp 264.

When freshly rebuilt it ran hot and was prone to ping....now that it is broken in the heat and ping are gone.

And,,,yes...I run it on Canadian regular 87 octane fuel(which tends to be a little better than US regular)

I need to recurve ....but my interim solution during breakin was to just use initial and mechanical advance ,,,,no vacuum....

Mileage despite my fears has been excellent.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....