I need to know what the metering rod sizes for the super six set up is. My car seems to think its only a loud to peel out in reverse and bog off the line in drive. the thing idles great and top end is good but I'm tired of it bogging out when I step on the gas.


I have adjusted this thing so many times that I can do it with my eyes closed. I'm starting to think that the carb is no good.

How is the distributor's mechanical advance and vacuum advance working?
Sometimes an off-idle bog is caused by lack of spark advance, the advance needs to "skyrocket" in when you crack the throttle in order for the engine to climb into the power band cleanly.
Put a timing light on it and watch the advance when you first crack the throttle open.
DD

I agree with this and add that I had a similar problem but in reverse, I was using a Carter single barrel and a distributor from a super six. The experience I gained from messing with the single and two barrel carbs has led me to believe that the single barrel gives the ported vacuum as soon as the throttle is cracked and the two barrel gives vacuum in a more delayed and gradual manner. After saying this I think you need a distributor from a two barrel motor or install a similar vacuum canister and set the initial timing up in the 5 degree BTC range.

Hello,
I too had problems with a bog off idle on my super six conversion as well. When I first installed it on a stock engine, altering the advance curve removed most of the bog. But, when I rebuilt the engine, and used a Comp cams 252 (a sad story in its self) the valve lash settings became the critical factor in bog or no bog, it has to with vacuum signal I think.
At first, on the stock engine, I increased the jet size by one, and switched the rods around, which cured the bog, but killed the mileage. Then I swapped the distributor (junk yard) for one with less mechanical advance, and increased the initial set point, which helped a lot, and allowed me to return to the stock jetting, thus returning my MPG, and removing the off idle bog.
Anyway, for me it has been timing, and valve lash related.

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Ross Rither
1964 Dart, 170
225, super six.

thanks every one for your input I have been "tweeking" the carb lately and said what the hell and put in a metering rod set up from a two bbl 318. eeeek that was horrible so pulled it out and looked at the setting on the piston/metering rod holder and noticed the height setting was really off!


So by eye gauging the setting from the 318 and retrying the old rods my car runs so much better now. As for getting spark I am running a msd baster coil and a orange control box. Im a bit sketchy on the advance but somewhere I heard(not here) that my car should have a adjustable advance pod. true/false? My timing is set to 3-4 deg. btdc anything more it pings. If the timing setting will help I try it. I have located a complete super six motor and 4 speed trans I will be waiting for those parts for my new engine build. don't really need the trans I like my slush box !

I'll take the bet you have a 13-15R governor and your initial+mech is too much at certain ranges. You might steal the one out of the super six mill, if it still has the OEM distributor, then you can see if it will take 10BTDC or so.

Check your ported vacc. as doc said.

-D.Idiot

hey everyone here is the up date so far, I got my timing set at 6 btdc and she ran better but as far as the vacuum advance goes there is no pull on the port of the carb until the throttle is cracked? Should that be??? The cars timing is hard to check by my self but this weekend my buddy said he'd help. Can the spring kits for MSD that you can buy at the auto stores work to "recurve" the mechanical advance? Hey Doc (I don't have one just asking) would you trade in your dual weber set up for a single four? It seems to me that the fuel distribution would be better with the split intake.

I was thinking if a bad torque converter would cuase this two happen?

I'm going to the part store today to check on how much a whole new distributor will run me. Im going after one from a b-100 van just in case the lean burn set up would be on the aspen/volare ones.

That is exactly what should happen.
slant six powered aspens and volares never got lean burn, it was only the v-8 powered versions. The distributor for a b-100 van would have the wrong springs and too much mechanical advance for a car. The aspen/volare version really is a much better choice. The only thing to watch out for is that rebuilders sometimes have very little idea what they are doing and will sometimes give you something very different from the factory specifications. I suggest you hold on to your 'core' until you have a better understanding of what you've got. While trying to work out those bugs, it's usually worth keeping the origional part around in my experience.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Hey thanks man, the distributor is a 1bbl set up so it wont help to much but it works so so. I'll check in on that dis. thanks