Slant Six Forum
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/

wont start! help!!
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17873		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 8:21 am ]
Post subject:  wont start! help!!
ok, i drove my car to and from work yesterday with no problems, parked it around 1:20 pm, then it sat until about 10 this am, i went to start it and nothing, no cranking, clicking or anything else from the starter, the oil light didnt come on either, then i tried the dome light and nothing, wipers also nothing, then i flipped the switches for the cd player and fuel pump and they both kicked right in no problems, so i think its something besides the battery or starter, any ideas? thanks!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 8:28 am ]
Post subject: 
Probably a blown fusible link. That's the wire that runs from the firewall wire pass-through over to the starter relay, also on the firewall—assuming yours is a '64-'66. Other years had the fuselink located in different places. If you determine that wire is at fault, it must be replaced with another fuselink of the correct gauge, or with a properly-selected main fuse, and not with a length of regular wire! This is a circuit-protection device, without which your entire wiring harness can turn to charcoal in seconds if an overload condition occurs.

Could also be other faults in the main feed (circuit line A-1 and A-1A). These have their own screwed-down connection on the firewall main disconnect; inspect there for corrosion or damage. This line, which carries all the current used in the car, also goes through the ammeter, and after a few decades, a problem can develop there at the ammeter. If that happens, then the same symptom will result (no power to anything at any time).
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 9:38 am ]
Post subject: 
thanks dan, its a 67, does anyone know if the one from a 74 or 73 would fit? i think i kept most of the firewall area wiring on our 74 and i know its all still there from the 73, would a wire with an inline fuse work? thanks!
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 9:49 am ]
Post subject: 
its not the same as the 73 and i only have the inside wiring on the 74 leftover, so, i guess ill have to find one, im pretty sure ifound it and it looks blown, thanks a lot, also, i tapped into the battery at te solenoid thing by the battery, i ran a heavy heavy gauge cable from the battery to there, then a smaller one goes to the cd/amp/fuel pump, could that be what caused the problem?, its been running like this for a bit though
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 10:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
its not the same as the 73 and i only have the inside wiring on the 74 leftover, so, i guess ill have to find one, im pretty sure ifound it and it looks blown, thanks a lot, also, i tapped into the battery at te solenoid thing by the battery, i ran a heavy heavy gauge cable from the battery to there, then a smaller one goes to the cd/amp/fuel pump, could that be what caused the problem?, its been running like this for a bit though
Ah, yes, you've put your finger on it: You greatly increased the current load through the fuselink (and through your ammeter; this is very bad) and the fuselink did exactly what it was intended to do: It blew to prevent the rest of the circuit going up in flames.

You did the right thing by tapping at the battery to run your amp and fuel pump (I'm assuming you protected each of those circuits one way or another) but the current those devices draw must be made up by the alternator, and the A-1 circuit is not designed with prolonged high charging currents in mind. You're going to want to run a wire (10ga will be plenty) from the alternator's B+ terminal directly to your battery positive or to the large terminal on the starter relay next to the battery. This will make your ammeter stop registering charging current, but will probably prevent a reocurrence of this problem.
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 11:27 am ]
Post subject: 
its still affects it even though it isnt running through the fuselink? i meant the starter relay not solenoid, i dont know if thats the same thing or not...its got a bolt sticking out that has a wire running to the starter, i just tapped it there instead of another foot and connection at the battery, i increased that wire size a lot, thanks for the input!
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 11:37 am ]
Post subject: 
a wire with an inline fuse wont work for it? the autozone doesnt have it and napa is closed and i dont think they have it as far as i can tell online
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 1:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
also, does the fusible link come out of the bulkhead? the spade terminal part?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 1:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yes, it will affect it even though it doesn't run through the fuselink, see my last comment re: charging current.

You cannot just cram in a wire and fuse; you need a slow-blow fuse of the correct rating, which must be calculated.
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 1:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
ok, thanks alot! i get what your saying i think, i think the 73 dart has the same one, can i swap that in? thanks
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
To get yourself unstranded, yes, you can swap in the '73 fuselink. But, this will only address the symptom. It will not fix the problem (too much current being pulled through the original circuit) and the fuselink will in all likelihood blow again.
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
i rewired that circuit, put the cd/fuel pump/amp on the battery by themselves with a fused line, put in the 73 and it doesnt work, ive got power at the fuselink, is there more to it then just the little blue wire that says fuselink on it? i replaced the other wire to, the one from the relay to the fuselink wire, and ive got nothing still, with the battery working
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
i had given up for tonight and was browsing around on old messages to research fusible links and i had decided to try two last things tonight, checking the fuses for power and bypassing the ammeter by putting a screwdriver across the two terminals on the starter, first i tested the power at the fuse box, with the key off around half worked, and one that worked was the taillights fuse, so i turned them on and checked if they were on and they were, then i realized the headlights and domelight were on too, there had been no power to anything at all prior to this, and so i tried to start it and it started, so i dont know what was going on, i dont think that testing the fuse box fixed it so....yeah maybe the battery connection, i had taken it off after i gave up. i ended up replacing the fusible link with one from the 73 parts dart, then rewiring the cd player/amp/fuel pump back to straight to the battery, it has been like this for a long time, the power tapping at the relay is only about a week old with daily short driving, so thank you very much dan for your help! :D
Author:  dakight [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 6:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sometimes corrosion between the battery post and the cable terminal will form a high resistance barrier after a surge in current. When I've seen this happen it was when trying to start the car. If that happened and you removed the cable then replaced it you may have scuffed the metal enough for it to make contact again. I would highly recommend thoroughly cleaning the cables and battery posts then be sure they are securely tightend.
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sun Jun 04, 2006 6:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
i did take it off and replace it a couple times so i wouldnt spark anything while working, that may very well be, ill double check that, thanks!
Page 1 of 1 All times are UTC-08:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited
https://www.phpbb.com/