Hi..I have a 67 dart 225, rear main seems to be leaking. (oil under car at flywheel) What is the story? You have to pull it to do it? Auto trans, all stock, 904. Someone may have been into engine recently, all repainted, may have screwed up putting in rear main seal??

It is easiest to pull the engine if you are going to fix a rear main seal. Are sure that your tranny is not leaking instead of the engine. More on the rear main installation procedure here.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Thanks for the help...I printed that out for the future. I have heard of people changing the seal in place, on som eolder engines, but by the time you get the pan off in place, it probaly is a lot less work to just pull it amd do it right outside..but that leads to let's rebuild etc...auugghh..i assume it is engine as it looks limke engine oil, to the beat of my ability, and the trans fluid is red...while on that, are the new Mopar super trans fluids OK in earlier TF?

Here's my 10c

You don't need to pull the engin to chainge the rear main seal.

If you have access to a lift it's quite straight forward to change it in the car.

And if no lift, it is still do able.

Here is the Process (67 dart with auto trans)

NB make sure you have full pan seal kit and full rear main seal kit and some make a gasket rubber sealer for the corners and trickybits.

1) Undew drivers side motor mount, jack up motor about 2 inces, now jam a large socket in by the tranny bolt to keep it there.

2) let down engine, take out dip stick.

3) jack up car, on full lift preferably

4) drain oil

5) take off oil pan (making note of longer pan bolts at back)

6) with pan off, remove bolts to lower half of rear main seal housing. This takes off lower half of seal and L shaped seals off around the housing. INspect.

6) Use a wire or somthing to push to upper part of the seal around the crank and out.

7) now spray everything clean with break cleaner.

put in your new rear manin seals. Which is the two halves of the rear. The top half, push round the crank into place. The lower half goes in the metal peice you just took off. IMPORTANT: the metal peice has little L shaped rubber bits that go on its corners. These need a good dab of rubber gasket compound on them even though they are rubber. This is what the factory did. Then tighten it back up there before it drys.

You just chainged ALL of your rear main seal.

9) clean off pan and under side of engine. Scrape off old gasket, blow down with break cleaner.

10) install new gasket kit. Cork goes over rubber, dabs of sealer in all corners. Putt some sealer on the cork strips, leave the fron and back rubbers dry.

11) bolt back up pan, not too tight, not too loose. Don't want to split that cork gasket.

12) lowere down car, jack up motor, take out socket, put back motor mount, put oil back in engine, put dipstick back.

your done


There you go.


Takes about 4 hours with a friend.

Don't rush the cleaning or the gasket putting back.


T

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'67 Dart 225 Super Six

Hey, thanks for the info..sounds like you have done it, and worth a try.If not successful, you can go on to pulling it. Your mention of socket on tranny bolt does not convey idea of what you are doing..what tranny bolt, and why?

I would also like to know what tranny bolt your talking about. Do you have to remove the tranny and bell housing or can you work around it? Thanks.

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Drive it like its stolen, and be glad im not YOUR son...

Opened er up, I could actually twist rods on crank they were so loose; so went with rebuilt from S&S engines in Spokane. Slant six still running, noisy, with like .010 + on several rods, and timing chain had about .5" slack. They deserve that rep for tough!! Must have a big oil pump, too, to hold pressure with spaces like that ...I have gotten engines from Spokane before.. There are many rebuilders there, not sure why. everything new, overbored, you can't touch pricing for what they do, up to 7 year guarantee, around 1200$. I used them for AMC Grand Cherokee six, now 7500 miles between mobil 1, does not drop .060 on stick. (that is a damn good six as well I have had 4 beaters with it over maybe 40 years, no problems..this one was run out of oil by ex-- for 36k, no oil added; car is approaching 200K )

Anyway, the seal was the least of the 225 problems. On rebuilt, I noticed one of the rockers had a spot weld (MIG tack, actually) to keep arm centered on bushing, instaed of those little dimples...was this a failure mode seen often? This 67 had small crank flage, tubes on plugs.. Sort of surprising...