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| Turbo exhaust manifold https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18101 |
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| Author: | Matadem [ Sat Jun 17, 2006 4:36 pm ] |
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I have mine cut like that... the thing I forgot is that I drilled the holes for the bolts into the flage too large so I couldn't tap tread into the flange, I welded the studs... still need to take it for someone to weld the flange to the cast iron manifold ,test fit everything then choose a place for the flange of the external wastegate |
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| Author: | AndyZ [ Sat Jun 17, 2006 4:59 pm ] |
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Real nice. How much? |
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| Author: | 1966 dart wagon [ Sat Jun 17, 2006 5:33 pm ] |
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dang that looks pretty sweet |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Sat Jun 17, 2006 5:35 pm ] |
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Greg, Were you going to do a group buy on this? I'm interested in 1-2 of these. I need to dig up the post you did with his contact info... Lou |
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| Author: | gmader [ Sat Jun 17, 2006 6:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Group buy.... |
Yes, this is the guy that was willing to do the group buy with us. Unfortunately, everybody kinda petered out... So, here is his info. Quote: As for doing more, I would need to invest in another piece of equipment and make up a jig or two to make the process flow better. If you like it and there are others that want one as well, we'll go from there. For a group order of 5, I'd take $325 apiece. At 10 units I'd drop it down to $300 per manifold. This would give me the flexibility to make up the jigs and buy the other tool to make it go much quicker. Turn-around time will be 3 weeks or less.
If others are interested, let's get a list formulated here, and, when we are solid on our numbers, I will PM you his contact info. I hesitate to put his phone and email info on the web with all the crazy people and spammers out there.NOTE: we could really use a private, password protected web area, where we could put stuff like this. Just a thought. Thanks, Greg |
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| Author: | DionR [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:05 am ] |
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Is it welded or brazed? Can't tell with the coating. |
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| Author: | dusterdougr [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:20 am ] |
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I'm interested in one. But have not decided on a turbo yet. |
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| Author: | vynn3 [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:55 am ] |
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I'm interested, but the later the better. I'm still paying off the T-5 BH from the group buy... VM |
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| Author: | gmader [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 11:49 am ] |
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It is welded. |
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| Author: | DionR [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 8:39 am ] |
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Any concerns about dissimilar materials? What I mean is, a cast iron manifold with a steel plate welded/bolted to it. Seems like the expansion rates would cause cracking. This is the guy that built one for himself a while ago, correct? If so, in theory, the setup has been used for many miles and has been tested, correct? I'm struggling with the durability issue. I just wonder if cutting up a cast iron manifold to get a turbo flange wouldn't make a more durable setup. |
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| Author: | gmader [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 8:56 am ] |
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Yeah, he has made one for himself sometime back, and it worked for him for as long as he owned his slant. I think that the real durability problems will be with the expansion and contraction of the manifold itself, not the flange. Slant manifolds do not have a great reputation on stock cars for durability. When you up the temps significantly, I believe that the risk will go up as well. The better way to do with would be some sort of custom manifold, made out of stainless or weld els. Unfortuantely, I don't have the time or money to really experiment with this approach. Greg |
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| Author: | DionR [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 4:32 pm ] |
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Quote: Yeah, he has made one for himself sometime back, and it worked for him for as long as he owned his slant.
Only hesitation I have there is that it sounds like he made it just for mpg, not hp. Low boost and infrequent use makes me wonder if it was really tested.Quote: I think that the real durability problems will be with the expansion and contraction of the manifold itself, not the flange. Slant manifolds do not have a great reputation on stock cars for durability. When you up the temps significantly, I believe that the risk will go up as well.
I did some research, and it may not be a big issue, on the dissimilar materials. Cast iron expands .00000655 units per degree (i.e. XX inches or feet per degree) and steel expands .00000633 units per degree. At 1300 degrees and with an effective length of 3", the difference is 0.0009 inches, total. As it will expand from the center out, that's 0.00045 inches per side. Also, it's bolted to a big cast iron turbine that is going to grow the same as the manifold, so in all reality, the steel plate probably isn't going anywhere.Because of this, I've backed off from cutting up a 2.2/2.5 manifold to get a cast iron flange. The only thing I'm going to do different than your supplier is have mine brazed instead of welded. I think the brazing material will make up for any flex, and being the somewhat retentive person I am, I am going in the direction of marginally more safe. Quote: The better way to do with would be some sort of custom manifold, made out of stainless or weld els. Unfortuantely, I don't have the time or money to really experiment with this approach.
I'm right there with you. I wish I had been able to find some pictures of Andrew Wagner's setup, or better yet talked to him. I know he did at least one tube header turbo setup.
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| Author: | Matt Cramer [ Wed Jun 21, 2006 5:36 am ] |
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I believe Andrew Wagner had a stainless steel turbo header. If I were building a turbo header myself, I'd probably go with butt welded Schedule 40 stainless steel pipe, or Schedule 80 if I could find it. BTW, what are the temperature requirements for the brazing that you plan to do? |
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| Author: | DionR [ Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:07 am ] |
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Quote: ...what are the temperature requirements for the brazing that you plan to do?
Not sure what you mean. I was planning on having a buddy weld mine using "Econorod". I guess it is a cast iron specific arc welding rod. When I had the end of the manifold cut off in our shop, they pointed me to a guy that does all kinds of stuff on the side. Guess he was a fabricator in the military. He strongly suggested I braze it together. According to him, in the military, when they do a braze test on cast iron, they break the piece and if the braze breaks before the cast iron, they fail. He did say something about heating the piece, brazing it and letting it cool slowly. Same thing I've read about welding. Does that help? |
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