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| General Weber question https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18116 |
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| Author: | RossKinder [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 5:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | General Weber question |
Is there any reason a water controlled choke thermostat isn't a good one? If you used one, where would you connect it? |
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| Author: | dakight [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
They are pretty slow to respond but other than that I don't know why they wouldn't work just fine. The real question is where to connect them. My first thought was the heater hose but I believe that in most Mopar applications there is no flow through the heater hoses unless the heater is turned on. I can't think of any place else without having to kludge something together. The electric version is much friendlier to improvisation. |
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| Author: | Rust collector [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 11:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I kinda like them, as they react to engine temp, not air/carb temp. I don´t need choke every time I let the car sit for 20 minutes |
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| Author: | RossKinder [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 3:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: They are pretty slow to respond but other than that I don't know why they wouldn't work just fine. The real question is where to connect them. My first thought was the heater hose but I believe that in most Mopar applications there is no flow through the heater hoses unless the heater is turned on.
Hm. On the other hand, I suppose connecting in parallel rather than series would give you a constant pressure.Thanks |
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| Author: | CStryker [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 3:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I can't see why water wouldn't flow through the heater hoses so long as you tapped in before the heater valve (if equipped). |
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| Author: | dakight [ Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:24 pm ] |
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I don't have one handy to look at, but IIRC the heater valve is an on/off device and doesn't provide for bypass operation. I suppose one could tee into each line ahead of the heater and get flow. That would probably work but it would be a spaghetti bowl of hoses. I'll go electric, thanks anyway. |
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| Author: | RossKinder [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 10:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I don't have one handy to look at, but IIRC the heater valve is an on/off device and doesn't provide for bypass operation. I suppose one could tee into each line ahead of the heater and get flow. That would probably work but it would be a spaghetti bowl of hoses. I'll go electric, thanks anyway.
Yeah, well, the electrics are getting harder to find.Now if someone can chime in and tell whatever is the simple way to convert a DGAV to DGEV I'd certainly be pleased. I have reason to believe it is, in fact, a very simple process, Which may be why I can't find a single thing about it on the internet. Well, I take that back. I saw one place that advertised to sell you conversion kit for a mere $65. Or to do the job for something like $135. But I'm pretty sure that's a rip. I suspect you can buy a small, relatively inexpensive part, do a switch, run a wire and be done with it. But I've never even seen a Weber carb so can't be sure. Best I can figure it, the DG signifies GM carbs and the DF signifies Ford carbs - the GM versions being the easiest to put on my '65 based on the CCW throttle rotation. Thanks |
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Tue Jun 20, 2006 9:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just use the water choke. Unless you have an AC equipped car water flows through the heater core full time. |
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