Yep, as the title says, I acquired one gauge that needs to be coneccted to oil filter (I Think), but what else I need, I got the gauge, oil line, some connectors and the gauge base for under dash, what I need to know before I try to install it?

Oil line is very large and is made of coper, looks like is 4 meters long with the conections welded.

for the Gauge, I´m pretty bad at electric connections, so any idea how to conect the light of the dash?.

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Mopar Muscle is well defend by Slant Six!

Valiant Duster 1971

just be careful, andn don't kink the copper, it will split. I went to the plastic, with a small vacuum line the full length to protect it. just get a TEE that fits in where your present guage is, and adapt to that. use teflon tape, so it does not leak... enjoy...

I am no friggin good at electrical. that is why my dash is dark at night... lol... any help on that guys??

Chris

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65 Coronet, 4 bbl, .060 over, mild cam.
66 Valiant, Black, 3spd, Hyperpak, headers.
works in progress...

for the light you'll want to tap into the power source for your dash lights off the headlight switch. that way they'll dim with the rest of the dash lights. then ground to a good location. as far as location for the fitting I used the stock idiot light location, above the base of the filter.

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

as far as hooking up the light on my 63 Dart, I used the wire that works the lights for the radio. dont remember the color of the wire. it is not the power wire for the radio. with a test light, it should come on and dim as you work the dash lights. this of course a$$umes your dash lights work.
the only thing I can suggest, is checking the bulbs, and possibly some good quality contact cleaner, (radio shack maybe) and working the switch back and forth, I have to rotate mine rapidly once in a while to make it work. (I havent gotten around to the contact cleaner yet)

I am not great with electrical either. mine had a few working when I got it and bulbs fixed the rest

good luck

Phil

thanks Phil. I will try the contact cleaner... nice dart... I hope to get a decent pic of my 66 at carlisle this week...
have fun...

Chris

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65 Coronet, 4 bbl, .060 over, mild cam.
66 Valiant, Black, 3spd, Hyperpak, headers.
works in progress...

When you hook up the guage line to the oil pump, get an adapter so you can still use the stock sending unit. That way if you get low pressure, the light on the dash will still work. You'll notice the red light before the guage. I've heard that if you put a couple of turns in the copper line (like the brake lines), you'll get ride of the "tick tick tick" sound associated with using copper lines (why I like nylon lines). I once ran a copper line and got the tick running it straight.

Under the dash, there should be some loose pig tails (may be yellow or orange) with two or three female connections molded into it. One will be for accessories that requirer dimming like dash lights (like rear window defrost switch, console). Find that and put a male connection on the end of the hot wire for the guage light. Theres your light. The dash ground will provide the ground for the light.

Ok, Tomorrow I will get the mounting plate for the gauge and them I will install it in a friends mechanic workshop, but first I will look in a Home Depot or local store for a TEE to get the Oil Light working and the gauge. Thanks people.

_________________
Mopar Muscle is well defend by Slant Six!

Valiant Duster 1971

Yay!!! after 3 hours looking for conections and few minutes installing the gauge and line, everything worked pretty good!!! even got light!

Ironic thing, tee and 2 conectors costed 11 dollars, while the gauge and line costed 5.76 dollars.

_________________
Mopar Muscle is well defend by Slant Six!

Valiant Duster 1971

LOL...

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65 Coronet, 4 bbl, .060 over, mild cam.
66 Valiant, Black, 3spd, Hyperpak, headers.
works in progress...