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 Post subject: I need help!
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:12 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 10:33 am
Posts: 50
Location: Georgia
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I'm having an electronic issue... off the battery goes a wire..wich leads to a wiring harnse in the fire wall... it has burned through killing all electrical to the car... so i think i need a new wiring harnse.... where can i get one?..or maybe a rewiring kit for under the hood?
the car is a 68 dodge dart..and if i don't get it running again i have to sell her wich i don't want to do.. any advice?

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not the new ones that go wrrrrr -.-;


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:01 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1853
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Draco, it sounds suspiciously like you've burned up what's called a "fusible link". It looks like wire, but is engineered to act like a fuse. Take a closer look at it, and see if you can find a "tag" that appears to be made out of the same material as the insulation on the wire.

It would be a big help if you could post a pic of the affected area.

Roger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:20 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Georgia
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yeah dude that is exactly what burnt in half!
I herd some noise (i now realised was arching) for a week before ...then one day the car shut off and smoke was coming from the alt(?). but it started back up.., next day it died for real... so what do i do now?

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I like the cars that go VROOOOOM

not the new ones that go wrrrrr -.-;


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:22 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Georgia
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yeah dude that is exactly what burnt in half!
I herd some noise (i now realised was arching) for a week before ...then one day the car shut off and smoke was coming from the alt(?). but it started back up.., next day it died for real... so what do i do now?

_________________
I like the cars that go VROOOOOM

not the new ones that go wrrrrr -.-;


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:24 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 10:33 am
Posts: 50
Location: Georgia
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yeah dude that is exactly what burnt in half!
I herd some noise (i now realised was arching) for a week before ...then one day the car shut off and smoke was coming from the alt(?). but it started back up.., next day it died for real... so what do i do now?

_________________
I like the cars that go VROOOOOM

not the new ones that go wrrrrr -.-;


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:40 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13278
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
(1) Replace the fusible link. if it were me I would bypass it using an in-line fuse that is replaceable and rated at 30 amps. This way you can trace the short causing the fuse to blow without having to keep on replaing a fusible link.

(2) Find out why your main battery feed blew

(3) Take this opportunity to bypass the bulkhead connector on the firewall and eliminate that terminal from you ain battery feed.

(4) Also take this opportunity to clean and check all the conectors in the bulkhead terminal

(5) This is also a good time to install relays on your headlights.



It sounds to me like you had an internal failure in your altetrnator. Try swapping that first.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 8:09 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 10:33 am
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Location: Georgia
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I'll try and see if i can get pics tomorrow...

So how would i go about changing the "fuseable link" into a fuse....I mean how do i plug it into the "plug" in the fire wall?

and sorry about my muti post of the same thing... my pda internet gliched up

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I like the cars that go VROOOOOM

not the new ones that go wrrrrr -.-;


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 2:19 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 10:33 am
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Location: Georgia
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ok, can't get pics for awile..

I got a blade style fuse & holder.. of course that got it back up when i touched the wires together.

Now the wires are geting old and need replacing....that being said, can i just remove the wire that was the 'fusable link' from the firewall plug and insert the wire from the fuse holder in its place?
Or am I going to have to replace that plug? and finally....what's the 'fire wall plug' thing called?? :?:

_________________
I like the cars that go VROOOOOM

not the new ones that go wrrrrr -.-;


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 4:55 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:35 pm
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Location: Maine
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I believe it's called a bulkhead connector.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:46 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
There is a reason the factory used fusible links instead of fuses. They will withstand short duration spikes in current but will blow if there is a sustained overload. Most fuses will react much more quickly - perhaps too quickly. A circuit breaker for testing is OK usually, but I would replace the fusible link with another fusible link when I was sure that the original problem was resolved.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 8:40 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
There is a reason the factory used fusible links instead of fuses. They will withstand short duration spikes in current but will blow if there is a sustained overload. Most fuses will react much more quickly - perhaps too quickly. A circuit breaker for testing is OK usually, but I would replace the fusible link with another fusible link when I was sure that the original problem was resolved.
That's what slowblow fuses are for...........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:47 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 10:33 am
Posts: 50
Location: Georgia
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ok...so whats a slow blow fuse?.. never seen one..

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I like the cars that go VROOOOOM

not the new ones that go wrrrrr -.-;


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:49 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8978
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Quote:
Quote:
There is a reason the factory used fusible links instead of fuses. They will withstand short duration spikes in current but will blow if there is a sustained overload. Most fuses will react much more quickly - perhaps too quickly. A circuit breaker for testing is OK usually, but I would replace the fusible link with another fusible link when I was sure that the original problem was resolved.
That's what slowblow fuses are for...........
Fuseable links are rated by "gauge", not amps. The length of the link also will make a difference. How would you determine the size of the fuse needed? Where would you buy a slo blo automotive fuse? Do you have any part numbers? I have never seen any.

I am in favor of staying with a fuseable link, except for testing/diagnostic purposes. Just as an example, some electric radiator fans will draw 40 amps when first starting. When they get to speed, will only draw about 6-7 amps. What size slow blow fuse would you use?

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 4:03 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
There is a reason the factory used fusible links instead of fuses. They will withstand short duration spikes in current but will blow if there is a sustained overload. Most fuses will react much more quickly - perhaps too quickly. A circuit breaker for testing is OK usually, but I would replace the fusible link with another fusible link when I was sure that the original problem was resolved.
That's what slowblow fuses are for...........
Fuseable links are rated by "gauge", not amps. The length of the link also will make a difference. How would you determine the size of the fuse needed? Where would you buy a slo blo automotive fuse? Do you have any part numbers? I have never seen any.

I am in favor of staying with a fuseable link, except for testing/diagnostic purposes. Just as an example, some electric radiator fans will draw 40 amps when first starting. When they get to speed, will only draw about 6-7 amps. What size slow blow fuse would you use?

Radio Shack etc.............. (just search on fuses) (note available for blade type)

For a fan I'd say 20 - 25 amp fuse

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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