Greetings - ISO help on three items -

1) I have not been able to find a FSM or equivalent yet, and I could not find a pertinent thread/link with fuel pump instructs and cautionary notes. (Probably here but couldn't find.)

This is probably a simple part to replace, but everytime I assume that
something unfortunate happens. A link/advice would be greatly appreciated.

2) I installed and adjusted the BBD per the 'tuneup' kit sheet and many helpful postings. OE parts looked solid and clean - no tarnish/varnish,
the floats float, & the pump, metering rod, and new needle clearances are spec. B12 blow-through from idle screw ports and main jets to throttle jets is strong, incl. to the small jets in the bottom of the bores (?). I do not really get how fuel flows from the main jets to the small lower jets, but is controlled by the mix screws. If it works I'll be happy, but I would like to know.

BUT - I forgot to actually measure the bowl vent clearance. The parts move freely, and when I gently move air in the hose it travels both ways.
I remember seeing a thread about bowl vent criticality, but I would also
rather not tear the thing apart just for this. Suggestions? Again,
I did not find any worn or sticky parts elsewhere.

The kit sheet specifies to lube the pump plunger cup, but not what to use that won't react with gas.

3) I have seen references to using brake cleaner/Brakleen for other than
brake cleaning. Tophat suggested it for cleaning upper bolt holes. Is
it less damaging than other cleaners, i.e., engine or carb, for certain
uses? I want to flush gunk away from the dist. base ( 20+ yrs worth)without damaging the dist. seal, esp. since I don't know what it is made from. This appears to be better done from underneath.

Thanks in advance. This is like taking baby steps.

Don

H'mm. A FSM for a '77 Aspen/Volare should be easy and cheap to find. Did you check with the contact given in this thread? Did you check eBay?

Fuel pump is about as simple as it looks; just be sure to clean away all the old gasket material, and be sure the pump operating lever/arm rides atop the camshaft. If you manage to hook the lever arm under the cam, you'll frag the pump when the engine starts. It's pretty easy to tell...if the cam's eccentric is in its fully-outboard rotative position (which is when it's easy to underhook the cam with the pump arm), then the old pump will want to spring away from the block on its own as you unbolt it. In this case, rotate the engine either by hand (fan belt) or by bumping the starter until the eccentric moves away from the fuel pump "window". As you are replacing the pump, you may want to do the fuel line mod.

Carb adjustment and specs...this is a great reason to own the FSM, all that good stuff is in there.

Spray solvents (brake, carb, etc.) are very expensive, inefficient and toxic to use for the kind of larger-scale cleaning it sounds like you want to do (degreasing the engine in the area of the distributor). Use engine degreaser (e.g. Gunk Engine Brite) or, better and less costly and less toxic but requiring more patience, Simple Green.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I second the Simple Green or engine cleaner reccomendation for cleaning; carb and brake cleaner both tend to not play well with rubber, which is what the dist. seal is made from. (It's actually just an o-ring.)

Regarding the fuel pump replacement, yeah, it's pretty much a no brainer. Unlike some engines, there's no rod to fall out of position or any such nonsense. The arm rides directly on the cam, and if you get it in wrong, it's very unlikely that it will even tighten down evenly and seat flat. Dan's suggestion about rotating the engine isn't a bad idea though.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

Thank you Dan and Chris very much for the info. This is just what I need
to advance the project (hopefully) w/o messing up. Right now it's 90F., so
am hovering in front of the AC. Garage is 97F.

Re: FSMs - I have been checking Ebay and other sources without success. Fortunately, Paul P. just emailed me this AM that he seemingly has a
set at a good price. I have asked for a clarification, but otherwise it looks like a go. Thank you, Dan, particularly, for this lead. (I also discovered that the Paul P. of the website is not the same person. Good photog though.)

I am determine to get this car reliable and right if it kills me. Most of the probs that I have found were apparently caused by local shop techs who
should have known better. I understand now why /6 mavens do their
own work if at all possible. I need to find a good, local mech. around
here to do the heavy lifting.

*** IIRC - I seem to recall a thread reference about fuel delivery probs being caused by a wear groove in the cam eccentric. I will check for that and hope for the best.

Darn sticky keys - thank you Spellcheck.

Thanks and regards,

Don