this is about the proper hole size for a 833. I did cut it with oxygen/acetylene torch. Didn't even touch the crossmember.
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| auto to manual swap https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18869 |
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| Author: | chbmopar [ Fri Jul 28, 2006 10:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | auto to manual swap |
Salutations, My son and I are working on a '70 Dart /6 with a 904, I like 4 speeds (5,6 what ever it takes) where can I find a step by step resource for the swap. |
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| Author: | zedpapa [ Sat Jul 29, 2006 11:44 am ] |
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i did the same swap on my car to the A833OD tranny and loved it. really wasn't that hard doing the swap. the hard part is finding the parts. i don't know if a step-by-step resource exists, but it goes something like this: 1. find all parts neccessary for swap(pedal assy, clutch linkage, flywheel, clutch, tranny, driveshaft if nec, shifter, shift rods, trans tunnel, steering column if you don't want to look at P-R-N-D-2-1, TIME, TIME, TIME!) 2. raise vehicle off ground at least 18" or higher. it helps. 3. remove auto tranny and shift linkage from vehicle. don't worry about holding the engine, it balances on the motor mount and the valve cover rests on the firewall. it doesn't go anywhere. 4. install bellhousing. you can also do the clutch linkage at this time. 5. remove the steering column so you can install the pedals. 6. install shifter mechanism without shift handle on tranny. install tranny and raise until the shifter hits the floorboard. mark the location and remove tranny. this is where you want to cut you first hole. 7. cut a hole about 5" square and reinstall tranny with the trans mount. the shifter should now be in the right location. 8. now lay the four speed trans tunnel over the shifter. the shifter should be pretty close to center of the hole. the tunnel should also "fit" in the floor boards. 9. draw a line around the tunnel and remove the tunnel. take a die grinder and cut 1/2" inside this line. this will give the proper opening to allow room for the shift rods and still leave enough material to weld the tunnel to. note: be carefull at the rear of the tunnel, you run out of material quickly. don't ask how i know. NOTE: there is the torsion bar crossmember underneath and welded to part of the tunnel you are removing. this is why you must use a die grinder. go slow and be carefull. 10. you can now install the tranny for the last time(if you removed it for step 9). don't forget to put the clutch in. i didn't have a line up tool so i just put the pressure plate over the disc and started the bolts but didn't tighten them. now install the tranny slowly and align the disc as you push the tranny in. now rotate the engine and tighten the bolts slowly so the pressure plate is tightened evenly. 11. now install your shift rods and adjust them. this is much easier to do without the tunnel in place. i had to bend my rods to make them clear the crossmember. remeber that the 1-2 and 3-4 rods go over the crossmember and the reverse rod goes under the crossmember. the 1-2 and 3-4 rod adjusters go on the shifter and the reverse adjuster goes on the tranny. 12. now weld the tunnel in. don't weld all at once. tac it down in four corners to make sure it stays in the right place. then go back and lay some beads 3/4"-1" long in diferent places. if you want it to look nice, lay some seam sealer down. 13 install your drive shaft, carpet, seats, fill the tranny with oil and go drive it. i am sure there are little things that i forgot about as i did this almost 3 years ago. if you post back with questions, someone here will be able to answer you. the swap took me one full saturaday working by myself and taking the drive shaft to shortened and balanced. i installed a 8.25 axle at the same time which required a "custom" length. obviously this is for the A833 trans install. a 5 or 6 speed install will be different. zedpapa |
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| Author: | chbmopar [ Tue Aug 01, 2006 9:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thank for the help! One more question. Where can I find out which bell housing is the right one, and what year 833 \rom what cars will work |
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| Author: | zedpapa [ Sun Aug 06, 2006 10:13 am ] |
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there are different size front bearings on the 833 trans depending on whether you use the overdrive trans or the non-overdrive trans. the diferent bell housing have different size holes to match the bearing retainer and center the trans. my suggestion is to find the trans you want to use and then get the bellhousing. for the overdrive trans, i believe the bellhousing from a volare or aspen with the od trans will work. i am not sure about the others. zedpapa |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
There is some good 4-speed info in the articles section: http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-spee ... speed1.htm DD |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Sun Aug 06, 2006 7:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
this is about the proper hole size for a 833. I did cut it with oxygen/acetylene torch. Didn't even touch the crossmember.
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