You are correct, the slant six does not need need a cross over, it fires even as does all four and six cylinder engines. How you kill the noise is simple. run the same diameter tube from the manifold all the way out the rear of the car. do not terminate before the rear axle. Use 2 inch I.D. for what you are talking about. Use a turbo style muffler but use the longest muffler body that fits under the car. don't use a 12 inch long muffler if a 20 inch muffler fits. The shorty gives you the hotrod sound because there is no place for the noise to go but out the tail pipe. The larger muffler gives a better volume to disperse the pulses that create the sound. remember glass packs, CHERRY BOMBS?? If you wanted to wake the whole neighborhood, you used the 12 inch Bad Boys, but if you wanted that real sexy deep throat sound, you used the 36 inch pukers and ran a resonator on the tip that was usually another cherry bomb, 12 inches long, and was the next diameter in size. 2 inch exhaust, 2.25 inch resonator. You could sneak home with that set-up and it wouldn't bark until you really stood on the LOUD pedal. As I recall, Cherry bombs are making a come-back. The last time I ran Glass Packs I ran a 36 inch, 2.25 inch I.D. Primary Muffler, with a 12 inch, 2.25 I.D. for a resonator. I told the muffler installer to use 2 inch tube and to expand the ends to fit inside the 2.25 Mufflers. This sounded really healthy going through town, but not LOUD. going down the freeway you couldn't hear it with the windows rolled up. And I always go all the way out the rear and use a straight cut, chrome tip, with a rounded end, so no one cuts their leg if they get too close. On my Turbo Charged Build-up I used exactly the same set-up, but went to 2.50 and 3.00 inch diameters respectively. The Muffler Installers think I am nuts but that is alright. I am the one who gets the headache when it is just to damn loud.
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