I live in Florida where the percentage is not a concern for freeze protection. I ve always though than running straight antifreeze would be fine. Just a little more expensive than cutting with water. Also the antifreeze is the lubicant - so more must be better. Right? I thought liquid is liquid more or less when it comes to heat transfer.
Now it seems I may have been wrong. Sound like the more water the better except for the lubication part.
What is the minium %age of antifreeze needed and still keep the corosion down and water pump lubicated? I know the easy answer is to follow the manufacures recommendation, but these recommendation are also for areas that deep freeze. If ones vehical was running a little hot could more water be added to help this? (maybe as a tempary fix until a permenant fix could be done)

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Yeah, straight antifreeze is a poor idea; it doesn't transfer heat nearly as well as water, and the corrosion inhibitors are meant to work with water. If you don't need particular freeze protection, run 30% antifreeze and 70% distilled water.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Where can you get just the anti-corrosion additives?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Speed shops usually have various options. Go wherever the local circle-track (paved, not dirt) go. Antifreeze is a big no-no in paved circle track racing. IIRC, most dragstrips do allow it since dumping coolant is a lot less likely than in a racing class with a lot of bumping and banging.

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I have seen corrosion inhibitor / water pump lube at Napa, Pep boys, as well as a few of the independent shops I go to. You could go even lower than 70-30 on the water to coolant ratio if you use one of these, BUT, if the car has factory AC and the cold air blows thru the heater core it could freeze and be ruined. I have run distilled water with both Redline water wetter and solder seal corrosion inhibitor / pump lube, it works great for max cooling but the corrosion protection does not last all year, let alone 2 years. If you do this I would add some more additive every three to six months to protect the system. Also the less coolant you run, the lower the boiling point, even at pressure. This is not usually an issue since the engine will run much cooler, but something to be aware of.

I never have problems with coolant or cooling systems. And here's why!

I live in California, SFBA, and have had some really hot days in July and August. My car and truck never over-heat and always run just about the same temperature all the time.

I use 50/50 water/antifreeze and always ethylene glycol, never silicone. to this I ad 'Water Wetter'. This is a surface tension neutaliser that makes the coolant adhere to the different metals found in your engine. I add an external coolant, head, hoses and filter, to every vehicle I own. I change this filter every six months. I plumb the filter in between the heater core and the engine. I put a tee in both heater hoses and make sure the tee is between the engine and the heater valve, not after. That way the filter has flow all the time, more so when the heater is off. I change the thermostate every two years and service the system every six months by the calender, the first day of winter and the first day of summer.
The biggest advantage of maintaining a cooling system in this manner is simple. When something goes wrong and the engine gets too hot. I DO NOT suspect the cooling system. I can automatically search for a different cause to the problem