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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 7:48 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2006 6:45 pm
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Location: Hamlin NY
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:?: Hey guys, I'm new to the forum but I've been hot rodding slant sixes for a few years now.
Finally found a good original Hyperpack setup including the intake and exhaust manifolds. It will be going on a 225 powered 61 Valiant 2dr HT that I am currently restoring. I want this to look as close to an original Hyperpack as possible but can't find anything better than some old magazine photos to go by.
What I need is an original dealer installation manual or a copy of one to help me with the misc. brackets and linkages. I want to make sure I install it correctly so no parts get damaged. I have only seen a few of these things around and most were broken and re-welded, want to keep this one nice.
If anyone out there has an original manual to sell, or a copy to send, it would help a lot, tried ebay but no luck. Need a little slant six mojo from the faithful. ..... Thanks V.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:05 am 
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I have this info, and can provide it when I'm back to my office and my scanner is fixed.

Where'd you find this Hyper-Pak setup?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 11:28 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:05 pm
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I dont know if this will help or apply to your app but it was on the Clifford site.



Intake Manifold Instruction Check to make sure you have everything you need to complete the installation of your new Intake Manifold. 1. Remove stock intake and exhaust system. 2. Clean all surfaces to remove any particles attaching to your cylinder head. 3. Most Clifford Intake Manifolds will not fit with your stock exhaust system. We have made this Manifold to improve performance and economy, by designing the runners larger for maximum flow. 4. Use grade 8 Header bolts with round steel washers. We want a washer that bends a little, as your new Intake will be a different flange height than the 3/8-inch flange on your headers. 5. Torque to 30 lbs with the header system. Re-torque after 2,000 miles. 6. *To hook up your water jacket, run inline using the pre-heater hose from the water pump to the heater core to heat your new Intake, then run from the manifold to the heater core. 7. Install the adaptor for your carb and turn the carb on the adaptor for easiest throttle hook up. Your new Intake is an open plenum design and will handle anything you can throw at it. YOUR NEW INTAKE FLANGE WILL BE A DIFFERENT THICKNESS THAN THE EXHAUST FLANGE. TO INSURE THE PROPER TORQUE YOU MUST MOUNT WASHER ON BOTH, STEEL AND ALUMINUM ON AN ANGLE.


It may not be what your looking for if not, Dan will get you fixed up.


Jess


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 3:57 pm 
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Do not attempt to use these Clifford instructions for your Hyper-Pak setup.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 7:43 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2006 6:45 pm
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Location: Hamlin NY
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Lucky ...
Thanks for the Clifford info, but I can't use their instructions with the cast iron manifolds. ... V.

Dan ...
If you have an electronic copy of the instructions that you can eventually send me that would be great.
Believe it or not I found the Hyperpack intake and exhaust at the "Chryslers at Carlisle" show in Carlisle PA. I have been attending the show for ten years and this is only the second set I have seen there, (the first ones I've seen that aren't broken). I paid the vendor for them and came back later with my van to pick them up.
When I got there the vendor told me while I was gone he had a visit from an engineer from Evernham Engines (of NASCAR fame). He heard of the Hyperpack for sale and wanted to buy it for some research. He told the vendor that Evernham is considering making a performance head for the slant six and they want an original Hyperpack for the development.
I thought it sounded a little far fetched, but he had the engineers buisness card and he gave me the guy's name and number if I decide to re-sell the manifolds.
The manifolds are completely un-molested and very clean but I didn't get any of the throttle, supports, carb or air filter, Im anxious to see it all assembled. It's going on a long-rod 225 that is out getting balanced, but will be back home soon..... V.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 8:09 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:05 pm
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Oh wow, so you have the real deal, cool.


Jess


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:06 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 9:47 pm
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You should lead the guy to Doug who reproduced the hyperpack intake.

Cheers, Wizard


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2006 5:00 am 
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hi v300,
it's great you found a nice setup! i have only seen one original set floating around the shows (with a lofty pricetag) and it had been repaired at some point. it's nice to know you'll bolt it on and use it. good luck with your project!

-james

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:40 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2006 6:45 pm
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Location: Hamlin NY
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James ...
I wouldn't be surprised if the repaired set you have seen are the same ones I have been visiting at Carlisle for the past 6 years or so. $1,800 with a re-welded flange on #3-4 runners, and #2 runner broken right off at some point, sound familiar? :roll:
I know I lucked-out on finding this setup. Getting there on Thursday while the vendors were still unloading helped a lot. I'm sure it would have been gone shortly if I didn't buy it. And it cost a lot less than the broken set. I just hope I can do it justice. Since I bought the Hyperpack I have gotten more serious about keeping the original appearance on my 61 Valiant project car.

Wizard ...
Thanks for the input, maybe Doug D. will see this and have something to contribute. ... V.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:09 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
I have a thick folder full of Hyper-Pak information including the install instructions, I will try to scan those for you tonight.

Send me a PM with that engineer's phone number and I will talk with him about the repop head project. I have some blueprints already made-up for an aftermatket SL6 head and it would be good to compare notes with them.
DD


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 3:22 pm 
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hi v-300
yes that intake sounds familiar. an older fellow with a long white beard had it at carlisle and mopars at the rock over the past 10 years or so. he wanted $2100 for everything the last time i saw him. i'm looking forward to seeing pics of yours, if not in person someday! take care.

-james

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:15 pm 
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I saw that same setup for sale at Valdosta this year. I told Charlie about it and he said that guy had been dragging that thing around for years.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 10:16 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2006 2:28 pm
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my carb guy (san diego carburateors) has done a number of clifford manifold installs and says that even the Clifford instructions are not correct.
How does Hyper pak behave around town with those long runners and all?
how is off idle drivability?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:02 am 
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Quote:
my carb guy (san diego carburateors) has done a number of clifford manifold installs and says that even the Clifford instructions are not correct.
Clifford has very limited knowledge on how to make a SL6 run, that was true back when Jack Clifford was running the business, he was mostly a Hudson and GMC / Chevy 6 man and applied his extensive understanding of those applications to the Slant. Today, with Jack gone, Clifford is more a source of mis-information then good SL6 knowledge.
Quote:

How does Hyper pak behave around town with those long runners and all?
how is off idle drivability?
The Hyper-Pak intake works surprising well at low RPMs and thru the off idle transition. Two things that need to be addressed:
-It is 'cold blooded' with no manifold heating features. I run my exhaust pipe(s) right under the manifold to help it warm-up.
- The manifold's large volume needs a lot of accelerator pump shot and a correctly set 'power valve'. (enrichment circuit) so there are no lean-out, flat spots as the carb transitions into the next fuel circuit. Having a good vacuum gauge and carb adjustment understanding is a must to getting the H-Pak set-up working well.
DD


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 Post subject: I agree
PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 6:18 pm 
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Quote:
The Hyper-Pak intake works surprising well at low RPMs and thru the off idle transition. Two things that need to be addressed:
-It is 'cold blooded' with no manifold heating features. I run my exhaust pipe(s) right under the manifold to help it warm-up.
- The manifold's large volume needs a lot of accelerator pump shot and a correctly set 'power valve'. (enrichment circuit) so there are no lean-out, flat spots as the carb transitions into the next fuel circuit. Having a good vacuum gauge and carb adjustment understanding is a must to getting the H-Pak set-up working well.

You can look at my past posts about "dialing" one in with an almost stock engine and the trials and tribulations of dialing the carb in...(I run a heat box so it keeps running in wintertime...but you have to increase the pump shot when things get below 40 degrees F).

I have all the components to do the long rod Hpak engine, knowing what I have learned from the carbed normal rod engine, I have opted to have the Clifford manifold machined for EFI so I can use the computer to dial in the settings instead of "pull carb apart/change these things/run it/change other things"

One thing you can't beat with good gearing, the low to midrange torque is really nice to get moving....

-D.Idiot


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