I was trying the HEI conversion, and it wasn't working. I removed the HEI module and took it to NAPA for a test (it tested fine). Anyway, I wiped off the grease for transport, and neglected to get more while I was there. What exactly is it? Would dielectric grease work? I have built a few computers and have some Acrtic Silver compound (it is used between the CPU and the CPU heat sink). Would this work? Or is the tube that comes with the HEI module something special.

One other question about the swap. In hooking up the HEI wires to the coil, do you leave both of the wires already connected to the coil alone, or do you unhook one of them. Now that I know the module is fine, I'm not sure where I failed. I switched the wires around, had a separate ground, engine and starter would go round and round, but no spark, so I will try again this weekend.

Dielectric grease isn't the right stuff. You need heat sink grease. The computer CPU type will be fine.

Did you follow the HEI upgrade instructions carefully?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I thought I did, went through the instructions a couple of times. I just went back and reread them. I think I may have had the CONCAVE side down.

With the convex side facing me, I think I had the connectors on the right going to the coil, and the ones on the left going to the distributor. Maybe I'm a little dyslexic. I will try the other way tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks!

I just tried the HEI and followed the instructions to the letter, but no luck. I have the B terminal going to the coil +, the C terminal going to the coil-, and the other two wires going to the distributor. I can't get it to start and I have tried switching the wires around.

The funny thing is that I'm getting spark.

I have one of those lights that you put on the end of a spark plug, and then connect the plug wire to. It lights up when the plug gets juice. However, the flash is kind of weak looking. I woudl think it would be bright white but it's more of an orange, as if it weren't getting all the juice it should.

So, any ideas? The only things I disconnected were the ballast resistor (bypassed) and I took the little condensor-looking thing off the coil+ connection. It was a cylinder that was roughly the size of your average condensor on a points-style ignition, and it was connected by one wire to the coil +. I have no idea what it is, so I pitched it.

Also, I disconnected the old Dodge ignition module. That didn't change anything.

Anyone?

.

Since you are getting spark, your basic wiring must be right. You might try swapping the two reluctor wires around. I can't tell you which is which, but just swap them with respect to their connection to the HEI module.

I've done two of these, and both times I had it wrong the first time. Swapping the wires was an instant fix.

It has to do with the module firing on the "rising edge" or "falling edge" of the reluctor signal. You could look around msefi.com and find the exact explanation, but my short answer is: swap the two wires going to the distributor (reluctor) and see what happens.

Also, make double sure that HEI is grounded per the instructions.

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It's a Slant thing. Even I don't understand.

1974 Duster, EFI /6 soon to be turbo...

Get that Monkay! Get that nasty thing!!

I tried switching them,but to no avail. I'll have to double check my ground. Although I made a ground wire that goes right on to the fender, so it should be golden.

I'm not suposed to disconnect any other wires or anything, right? I just am flummoxed that I'm getting some kind of spark, but not enough to kick over the engine.

Could my coil have gone bad somehow? I just don't know.

Anyone else got a guess?

Thanks!

If you've got spark, *and it is timed correctly*, your engine should at least try to fire and start. If it is not, I suspect ignition timing. This is so easy to screw up with a distributor R&R, even if you've done it a bunch of times and know exactly how it's supposed to go. Unless you get the distributor on the right tooth, odds are pretty good the engine won't even try to fire.

I am assuming you checked for an excellent HEI module ground, and you bypassed the ballast resistor. What coil are you using, BTW?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I think it's timed correctly because it ran fine with the electronic ignition 2 wire distributor before I added the HEI.

As for the coil, I had to use another one. The coil I used is the old one that came with the '72 225 that I swapped in. I put it in because the one that was on there broke. The + post was just spinning when I was trying to loosen the nut, so I had to get rid of it. Fortunately I had the other one laying around. It did work before I pulled the engine, but I suppose it could have gone bad.

It could be the weak link, but don't coils just go all at once? They don't peter out do they?

I grounded the HEI with a wire that is screwed in to the fender sheetmetal.

Usually not good enough. Run a ground wire from the module's ground screw to the alternator housing.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'd run it to the main chassis ground point (where the battery's ground cable is connected) for optimum electrical transfer. I've tried the battery's negative post before with my truck, but that seemed to cause problems with my Mallory setup (anyone have any ideas why that would be?). Seems the chassis ground is usually the best way to go.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Thanks for the advice guys, it WAS the ground! I thought fer sher that I had it grounded well by attaching a ground lead to an existing sheetmetal screw that held some other electronic part on to the inner fender, but as soon as I ran a ground to the block where the alt. bracket bolts on, it started right up. And, as a little perk, I got lucky and the 2 wires to the dist. were hooked up the right way and I didn't have to switch them. It runs like a top!

Thanks!

Sounds like you need to add a ground wire from the engine to the body. The only ground my HEI module has are the bolts holding it to the innner fender.

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You know, I think you may be right. Now that you mention it, I don't recall seeing one go back on once we swapped the engine. I don't recall taking one off as a matter of fact! The previous owner was a real meathead.

I dont remember taking one off when I swapped engines.
I added the one that I took off of a volare when I bought the head and super six. It connects to the bolt that held the air injection pipe to the head and to one of the heater motor nuts.

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There was one installed at the factory...sometimes they either rot away or get removed and not reinstalled.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.