Slant Six Forum :: Carb leaks from mount bolt?!?! But only during startup! Help

Its leaking out of the weep hole the accelorator pump shaft goes through, above the stud. Like ricki said, it could be a bad metering body gasket, or your float could be set to high. Throw a rebuild kit at it, adjust the float properly, and I'll bet it goes away.

...Nothing to worry about rebuilding the carb, one barrel carbs are mind numbingly easy to rebuild! But if you need some help, we are here for you and will help you out.

One thing: There are little check balls that are very easy to lose when you are draining the gas out. They aren't easy to find replacements for. DAMHIK

Quote:

One thing: There are little check balls that are very easy to lose when you are draining the gas out. They aren't easy to find replacements for. DAMHIK

That's why I save the old ones after rebuilding a carb

(glad they give you new ones in a rebuild kit, even though I've never seen a ball wear out division................)

Holleys don't have loose checkballs in them; the checkballs in a 1920 are all captive in the metering block.

Author:	stickylifter [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:52 am ]
Post subject:	Carb leaks from mount bolt?!?! But only during startup! Help
I'm hoping that a new carb base gasket will solve this, but tell me what you think: I hav a 1bbl stock carb (engine is from 72 dart) and when I'm cranking the engine over, gas leaks out of the area around the carb mounting stud (the one toward the intake runners - near the gas inlet). It leaks until I get the engine running, and then it stops. Wha tha fa? Any ideas?

Author:	stickylifter [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 9:31 am ]
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I should add that it is hard to start. After reading a couple other posts, I'm worried that the carb needs a rebuild.

Author:	ricki [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 9:31 am ]
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Is it a holley 1920? Are you sure that its leaking out of the stud and not from above it ... I had a carb that the measuring block inside the carb was not sealing properly against the accelerator diaphram. There is a small hole on the engine side of the carb, at the back of the fuel bowl where fuel was leaking out. That might be a possibility?

Author:	Eric W [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 11:46 am ]
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Its leaking out of the weep hole the accelorator pump shaft goes through, above the stud. Like ricki said, it could be a bad metering body gasket, or your float could be set to high. Throw a rebuild kit at it, adjust the float properly, and I'll bet it goes away. Nothing to worry about rebuilding the carb, one barrel carbs are mind numbingly easy to rebuild! But if you need some help, we are here for you and will help you out.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 11:49 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Its leaking out of the weep hole the accelorator pump shaft goes through, above the stud. Like ricki said, it could be a bad metering body gasket, or your float could be set to high. Throw a rebuild kit at it, adjust the float properly, and I'll bet it goes away. I'd add: Put in a new float. The float used in the #1920 will tend to absorb gasoline after a few decades of swimming in it.

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Carb leaks from mount bolt?!?! But only during startup! Help https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19530	Page 1 of 2

Author:	CStryker [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 12:34 pm ]
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Quote: ...Nothing to worry about rebuilding the carb, one barrel carbs are mind numbingly easy to rebuild! But if you need some help, we are here for you and will help you out. One thing: There are little check balls that are very easy to lose when you are draining the gas out. They aren't easy to find replacements for. DAMHIK

Author:	stickylifter [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 12:48 pm ]
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Yeah, that's what I was afraid of, a carb rebuild. I'll try that out.

Author:	emsvitil [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 2:45 pm ]
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Quote: One thing: There are little check balls that are very easy to lose when you are draining the gas out. They aren't easy to find replacements for. DAMHIK That's why I save the old ones after rebuilding a carb (glad they give you new ones in a rebuild kit, even though I've never seen a ball wear out division................)

Author:	CStryker [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 4:03 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: One thing: There are little check balls that are very easy to lose when you are draining the gas out. They aren't easy to find replacements for. DAMHIK That's why I save the old ones after rebuilding a carb (glad they give you new ones in a rebuild kit, even though I've never seen a ball wear out division................) \ The kits have new ones?!?!? What brand do you buy? I thought Walker was one of the better ones and none of my kits have come w/ the accel. pump check ball...

Author:	emsvitil [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 5:02 pm ]
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The kit for my BBS had the little balls................ Maybe holleys are different. It was a GP Sorensen from AutoZone (and I've had to dip into the backup ball supply......)

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 5:44 pm ]
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Holleys don't have loose checkballs in them; the checkballs in a 1920 are all captive in the metering block.

Author:	Jeb [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 6:06 pm ]
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Check your timing and give it a tuneup while you are at it. Also suggest doing Dan's fuel line mod.

Author:	stickylifter [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 6:19 pm ]
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I've done a new cap, rotor, and wires and converted to HEI. It's timed to 8deg. initial advance (BTDC). I have the fuel line running over the valve cover. All of which help. Thanks for all the great info guys! Sounds like I'm looking at a carb rebuild. sigh The only thing I don't get is why it stops leaking so much when it's running.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 6:29 pm ]
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When it's running, there's vacuum pulling fuel into the carb throat. When it's cranking, there's much less vacuum, but still the same amount of fuel pump pressure supplying the carb!

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Author:	CStryker [ Wed Sep 06, 2006 6:37 pm ]
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Quote: Holleys don't have loose checkballs in them; the checkballs in a 1920 are all captive in the metering block. Hm... 1945's do. Trust me, I lost one of them. I have to plead igorance on the 1920's; I didn't realize that they had a seperate metering plate. Do they also have the standard power valve that screws in as a unit?