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How do I lower a 64 Valiant?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19640		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  starion88esir [ Tue Sep 12, 2006 12:07 pm ]
Post subject:  How do I lower a 64 Valiant?
I want to lower my car. Any ideas on how I can do this? I've never lowered a car before.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Sep 12, 2006 12:18 pm ]
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What is it you are trying/hoping to achieve, and how much do you think you want to lower it?
Author:  starion88esir [ Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:35 pm ]
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I'd like to achieve far less body roll, and in my opinion a nicer stance. I'd say about 3-4 inches lower if possible.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:51 pm ]
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You can lower the front by loosening the torsion bar adjustor bolts, and the rear by fiddling with how the springs are mounted. I think you will achieve better control of body roll with stiffer torsion bars and front/rear antisway bars, rather than by lowering the car significantly.

3-4 inches' lowering is a fairly large amount. This will tend to alter the suspension geometry (or screw it up, depending on your perspective and how it is achieved). It will also screw up your headlamp aim, so if you do this, make sure to have the lamps re-aimed.
Author:  emsvitil [ Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:33 pm ]
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To get rid of the body roll you're better off with anti-roll bars.


And I can't believe that a 64 hasn't sagged enough on it's own already................
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Tue Sep 12, 2006 4:30 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How do I lower a 64 Valiant?
Quote:
I want to lower my car. Any ideas on how I can do this? I've never lowered a car before.
Let the air out of the tires. :P Sorry, couldn't resist.
Author:  Matt Cramer [ Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:07 pm ]
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Quote:
I'd like to achieve far less body roll, and in my opinion a nicer stance. I'd say about 3-4 inches lower if possible.
You can set the ride height in the front to whatever you want by adjusting the torsion bars. Just like it's got adjustable coil-overs from the factory. It's getting the car to behave acceptably when lowered that's the challenge.

Anti-roll bars will really cut down on body roll. I've got an Addco front bar on my Dart and plan to add a rear one fairly soon. They make a huge difference. One thing you might want to do with Addco front bars is alter the way they mount - bend the lower part so it wraps aroun the K-member rather than leaving a tab hanging an inch below it.

If you drop it that much, you are going to need some very large front torsion bars to keep it from bottoming out. I would say to skip production sizes and go straight to something in the 0.990" range for that much drop.

In the rear, you can get an inch or so of lowering by flipping the front spring hangers upside down. But three or four inches of lowering probably means de-arched springs or lowering blocks. And to match the front, you'll want to increase the spring rates - probably something like the station wagon or Super Stock springs, de-arched to the ride height you need.

Lowering blocks, BTW, are pretty much aluminum spacers between the spring and the axle.
Author:  64'4$peed [ Fri Sep 15, 2006 5:12 pm ]
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I went with .890 torsion bars and about a 2 inch drop. It handles great and doesn't bottom out. It also rides very nice. I havent' got my firm feel front sway bar yet but I imagine that would almost eliminate what is left of the body roll
Author:  starion88esir [ Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:05 pm ]
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Quote:
I went with .890 torsion bars and about a 2 inch drop. It handles great and doesn't bottom out. It also rides very nice. I havent' got my firm feel front sway bar yet but I imagine that would almost eliminate what is left of the body roll
Could you tell me who you purchased your torsion bars from and what method you used to lower the rear two inches? The fact that you have done it and are happy with it is great.
Author:  sandy in BC [ Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:33 pm ]
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My car is lowered by cranking down the torsion bars on the front , adding a sway bar , gas shocks and realigning. The rear is dropped by reversing the spring hangers(and swapping side for side)and adding gas shocks,,,,and realigning. Its about 2" lower....and thats plenty.

Any lower on the rear and the driveshaft angles get weird....lower on the front you will bottom out.

You need to realign(did I already say this?) the front end and headlights.

Its worthwhile getting a 4 wheel alignment...just to hear the guy say your old car is way straighter than the new ones.
Author:  64'4$peed [ Fri Sep 15, 2006 7:25 pm ]
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torsion bars came from summit racing. I only say 2" because the ride height was higher then stock before I lowered it. came that way when I bought it. Haven't lowered the rear yet, planning on it but I might as well put in a fresh read end while I'm at it but haven't found one yet. the car is "raked" quite a bit at the moment maybe a 3/4" drop rear to front. I kinda dig the nose down stance anyway.
Author:  rosspulliam [ Sun Oct 08, 2006 11:00 pm ]
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Not to bump an old post, but put an Air Ride system in and set your ride height as you wish!

Or, do as I do, and drag it along the pavement 8)
Author:  starion88esir [ Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:10 am ]
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Quote:
Not to bump an old post, but put an Air Ride system in and set your ride height as you wish!

Or, do as I do, and drag it along the pavement 8)
If I had the cash flow, I'd do it, but I'll just be pebble pushing for now.

I've been told I could use drop spindles from an F/J body. What else would I need to make those work?
Author:  rosspulliam [ Tue Nov 07, 2006 12:26 pm ]
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I don't know about drop spindles, but I got some tubular upper control arms which allowed me to get the frame on the ground and still be able to align the car to my desired ride height. It may be easier to use those than the drop spindles. Using the tubular uppers you can turn the torsion bars down to get the height you want and you'll be able to align it with the adjustment in the control arms.
Author:  rosspulliam [ Tue Nov 07, 2006 12:31 pm ]
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Also, I have 17x7 on the front and 18x8 out back and it all fits fine.
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