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| Where to hook yellow and red wires for new stereo https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19856 |
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| Author: | RDJ [ Mon Sep 25, 2006 10:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | Where to hook yellow and red wires for new stereo |
For the yellow wire (alway hot) on a new stereo I was going to splice into the cigarette lighter wire or just run a wire to the cigarette lighter fuse. Has anybody found that if the car isn't driven for a while, that there is too much draw from the battery? For the red (on with ignition) I was thinking of using the seatbelt buzzer (it is unhooked anyway). I am assuming the buzzer part, with the tabs, goes to the battery and the harness with three wires (dkb/lb on one side, dkb/r and dkb on other side), goes to the seat connectors, dash light. etc. Can I just crimp a connector on my red stero wire and hook it to one of the buzzer tabs for power? |
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| Author: | KBB_of_TMC [ Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I didn't note a model or year, but since it has a seatbelt buzzer it is probably at least early '70s. Many of those models have red and orange candellabra taps for battery and accessory hanging there just for that purpose that already are fused. Yellow was used for dash lighting. The radio memory usually draws a very small current (<1mA), less than the acceptable alternator diode leakage current and less than the self discharge of most batteries. A 50A-hr battery would nomially provide 1mA for 50,000 hours (about 5.7 years) if it didn't self discharge first. A typical 10W/channel stereo will only require a few amps to run, and there's plenty of margin for that in the ACC fuse and circuit. Fuse both feeds for safety. Usually the radio is run off ACC, not IGN; that way you can run the radio w/o running the ignition and you'll reduce the ignition noise in the radio. The buzzer is probably run of IGN, not ACC. There are often some places to plug into right on the fuse box. The older models tended not to have that, but all had fuses that were not switched (parking lights, dome light, etc.) and switched (radio, turn signals, etc.). It is not hard to tap into the back of the fuse box in those older models. |
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| Author: | RDJ [ Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sorry, it's 73 Dart Swinger. Thanks for pointing out the seat belt works on ign, not acc. I didn't even think about that. I'm not sure what a candelabra tab is (I imagine it is a cluster of unused electrical tabs), but I didn't see any unused connectors under there. My fuse box doesn't have any connectors either, but I will tap into the fuse box to connect the stuff. When I was looking for (I think) a candelabra tab, I did notice the yellow dash wire had a connector before it goes up into the dash. In addition to installing a stereo, I need to hook up the lights for my tach and aftermarket temp gauge. It looks like I can just shove a spade connector into the back of the yellow wire connector. Thanks KBB |
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| Author: | KBB_of_TMC [ Tue Sep 26, 2006 3:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The candelabras are molded 3-female (0.184"?) bullet connectors; I know my '71 Satellite has one each of red, orange, and yellow that the factory put in the harness. It made it very convenient to add aftermaket stuff. There are some nice piggyback spades that make adding a tap easy, and gizmos to do the same with fuses. It really doesn't matter where you do it. The radio is often a good place to tap what you need - reasonably easy to get at, and it has lights and ACC right there. |
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