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| Calling Doc, Oil Pump Gear Oiling https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20113 |
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| Author: | valiantboy_66 [ Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Calling Doc, Oil Pump Gear Oiling |
I am about to start working on the short blocks oiling system and I need to know what kind if tubing to use for the stand off pipe, to connect to the un-used oil pump pocket. If I understand this, you drilled a hole through the main galley directly down to the unused pocket then installed a tube through the hole leaving the top of the tube as close to the roof of the main galley as possible. |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:27 pm ] |
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I used some 1/16 NOS tubing on the last one I did. Any small "hypo tube" will work as long as the ID of the tube is more then .030 or so. For the "transfer tube", I install that in the oil pump because it is easier to work with the pump 'on the bench' then it is to work on the block. DD |
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| Author: | valiantboy_66 [ Wed Oct 11, 2006 1:27 pm ] |
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I didn't see any pictures of the transfer tube in the oil pump in the article. Do you have any to show how you did it? I also see you added extra return passages from the lifter galley with standoff pipes has anyone drilled one over the oil pump drive gear for added oiling? And how well do you think that would work? My boss has a lifter bore grooving tool would it be a good Idea to groove the bores for more oil to the cam? Ok, I cant think of anymore questions. I have been working every night after work down at the machine shop and I am excited to keep the ball rolling. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:23 pm ] |
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I am intrested of pis of this Too - I am not sure what exactly we are doing here - But I would like to learn. - I believe the empty pocket in the engine casting is getting connected to somewhere? Also - I have read somewhere - probably on this site - to use a wheel cyl hone to bore the lifter bores and add a chamfer on the one side - I did the Wheel cyl hone work with my current 225 Block. Thanks, Greg |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:56 pm ] |
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| Author: | 66aCUDA [ Thu Oct 12, 2006 7:54 am ] |
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Doc Do you have a part number for the 6 hole oil pump? thanks Frank |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Thu Oct 12, 2006 1:07 pm ] |
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Ok, the part with the Hollow bolt and the tube Spraying onto the The oil pump / Cam gear I can understand. How Do you pressurize the unused Pocket? I could not gather any info on that Part. the article says you can pressurize it from the pump or the Gallery itself - How is this done? any Pictures on this? Thanks, Greg |
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| Author: | valiantboy_66 [ Thu Oct 12, 2006 7:44 pm ] |
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Greg thank you for staying on task to one of my questions. Doug I have read the article, printed it, slept on it, and read it again. there is no picture or "how to" information on HOW you pressurized the pocket. The small straight piece of tubing in the articles picture I presume. It just said you could do it from either the pump or the block. Please, a picture so it can be duplicated. |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Thu Oct 12, 2006 9:35 pm ] |
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Hate to say that I do not have a "file photo" that I can quickly post to show how to connect the main oil gallery to the "unused pocket". Fear not, I will shoot and post a photo to show this modification, give me a day or two. DD |
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| Author: | valiantboy_66 [ Thu Oct 12, 2006 11:25 pm ] |
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Thank you Doc, That is an important picture that I hope you can add to the article. For the oiler tube and special bolt I modified your method a little. I used a brass 1/4 pipe plug drilled for 1/8 copper oil gauge line, that I silver soldiered. It screws in from the port and is flush with the inner wall of the block. It works perfectly. 
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| Author: | LUCKY13 [ Fri Oct 13, 2006 10:53 am ] |
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I wander just how much the camshaft flexing could add to this problem of wearing the gear out. Even warn cam bearings or bearings that has not been installed properly to give the right clearance on the cam to bearing looks like it could aid in causing problems. I am sure getting the oiling better can help but after looking at that picture these thoughts came to mind. I know the Jeep guys with the 4.0 have this very problem with the camshaft flexing because of the bearing location & number of bearings. Taking extra care in setting up the cambearings & using better made cams( better metals) and ofcourse cam buttons (the button has shown to help the slant)is what has been the cure for them. The 4.0 gets so bad about this that they will break a timing chain at about 5600 rpm if they dont go the extra mile on the setup. I have not heard of the slant breaking any chains but there still could be a small amount of flex or alinment problem going on. It would'nt take much of this to change the contact of the gears. Its just a thought, dont know if there could be anything to it. Jess |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sat Oct 14, 2006 9:57 am ] |
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Quote: Thank you Doc, That is an important picture that I hope you can add to the article....
This pic should clear-up any confusion: close-up As you can see, cutting a groove to connect the two pockets is an easy mod but installing the anti drainback tube is worth the extra time & effort. Note how the tube in the photo is placed so it's entrance is right at the roof of the top pocket. You can cut the tube shorter then shown, it just needs to enter the lower pocket. (black line in the pic) If you simply connect the two pockets as shown (black arrow) and do not install a tall tube, the main oil gallery will empy-out upon shut-down, draining back through that pathway. Quote: For the oiler tube and special bolt I modified your method a little. I used a brass 1/4 pipe plug drilled for 1/8 copper oil gauge line, that I silver soldiered. It screws in from the port and is flush with the inner wall of the block. It works perfectly.
Just be sure the tube is nice and stiff, the oil windage inside the block is strong, like spraying the tube with a strong stream of water, this can bend a weak tube. Also be sure the tube clears the near-by cam lobe.DD |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sat Oct 14, 2006 8:51 pm ] |
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Doc, Nice pics. Next Block I use , I will have to fab up one of these fine arrangements. Thanks again for the helpful Info Doc. Greg |
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| Author: | Rust collector [ Sun Oct 15, 2006 4:41 am ] |
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I like that!  Great stuff! |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sun Oct 15, 2006 9:08 am ] |
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Quote: Doc
Most of the new pumps sold today are "5 hole" that will not support this modification. I typically start with a used factory 6 hole pump, port the crap out of it and add a rebuild kit to get the pump to "better then new" condition.Do you have a part number for the 6 hole oil pump? thanks Frank If all you have is a 5 hole pump, you can still do this modification by using flair fittings and 'hard line' tubing. Here are some of the tools I have for porting and reworking oil pumps: DD 
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