Im having some issues with my HEI conversion and maybe someone can help. Im using a fuel injected 7 pin module because I just happen to have one laying around. Its been tested and is fine. Because it has more pins on it, im having a hard time looking at diagrams and descriptions for 4 pins and trying to make them work with this 7 pin. Gold dusters site shows a 7 pin diagram but it doesnt tell me the letters to attach my pickup wires to. The C terminal is next to a + terminal. Does this + ternimal do anything? The B terminal is on the otherside of the module but do I still use it like in the 4 pin descriptions? Ive even tried to do a pickup to pickup type wiring and that didnt work either. The car is apparently not getting any spark. Ive got the ballast unhooked and the 2 wires put together. But what do I do with the second field on my alternater? Do I need it anymore with this setup? If so where do I put it now that the ballast isnt used? Hopefully someone here can help me ou t.
Thanks

4-pin HEI modules can be had by the double-handful at wrecking yards for between $0 and $5, or brand new from $20 to $40. You will save yourself more than the highest of those amounts, in time and hassle, if you'll just start out with the easy 4-pin module to begin with.

Not sure why your alternator's second field terminal would enter into it...!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well I converted my car to electronic voltage regulater and power has to go to the second field terminal. Well that power came from the ballast when it was hooked up but now no power is getting to that second field. The last time I tried running my car without a second field on it, it constantly sucked juice from my battery. Once I converted to 2 field that went away.

See if you can decypher this:

http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

If no power is getting to your alternator field, then it is because something is wrong—that field should have been connected to the upstream side of the ballast resistor, not the downstream side. If it was connected to the upstream side, it would receive voltage whenever the key is "on" whether the ballast is present or absent.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The 7 pin HEI unit requires an external ECM for control. The 4 pin unit is self contained.

I was thinking the HEI module was an ecm but its not for the 7 pin?

Heres an update. Ive got the car where its trying very hard to start. Infact its almost started in the regard that exhaust noise and smoke is coming out and things like that.But it refuses to fully start. Sometimes it will backfire through the carb. Its obvious it still doesnt quite have enough spark to completly fire. It almost seems like its out of time. But I dont know how that could be. Anybody have any ideas?

did you check your primary coil resistence? it has to be over 1.2 ohms if you're not using ballast. If your coil has more than 1 ohm ballpark and less than 2 ohms ditch the ballast, and give it a try.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

If you did not rotate the distributor, and it sounds like it is out of time, it might be. Try reversing the leads from the pickup coil.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Well see the distributor shouldnt be out of time. Everything was in time and running before I started this conversion and the the distributor hasnt been taken out or anything. When I try to reverse the leads it basically does the same thing without the backfiring through the carb and also it doesnt sound like its starting as hard. Either way though no matter how the leads are it ultimatly is the same result of almost firing but never does. Ive also read that these modules cant be used without a corresponding computer so perhaps that my problem. Ill check timing tomorro and see if its ok.

What kind of distributor are you using? Year?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Its a stock electronic ignition distributor off a dart I believe. And judging by some of the gadgets that were in the wiring harness id say its atleast a 74. I did happen to find a 4 pin module which works perfect. The only thing the car doesn't really like is the bigger plug gap. I've got it set at .045
When I first started the car it still had the .035 gap in it and it seemed to like that better as far as idling goes. But the plugs are cleaning themselves now which they weren't before so either its the bigger gap or the HEI module or maybe both. I've thought about putting the gap down to about .040 instead. Any thoughts?

An HEI shouldn't have any problems with the .045 gap.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes