Slant Six Forum :: valve lash adjustment

We really need to do an article on valve adjustment....

I find that it is nice to adjust the valves while the engine is running because that can tell you a lot about the condition of the engine and also allows for a level of "fine tuning". Here is a procedure:

The engine must be hot.

Once valve cover is off, I check the torque on the head bolts, if they don't move ("crack" loose and turn more) by 75 ft.lbs, go to the next, follow the "center-outward" sequence. Also check to see if all the rocker arms are oiling out the center and tip holes. If not, now is the time to change them.

When I do my adjustment with the engine running, I turn the idle down as low as possible and put some cardboard under the car. (if you want your floor to stay clean!)

I start with the intakes, stock cams adjust at .010, watch for the TWO INTAKES side by side in the center of the row (Cylinders 3&4) use the manifolds as your guide.

Come back around for the exhaust valves, they should be plenty hot by now,(remember, the engine is running and you are "feeling" the clearance between the "hits", if unsure, stop the engine for a moment and recheck to help establish your "feel"

The exhaust is set at .020 but shoot for looser to start. (.021 - .022) Find a setting where the idle is smooth but the lifters are mostly quite, yes "mostly" quite, they should make a small bit of ticking noise when correct. When you have things set right, each cylinder should "miss" slightly when you insert the "feeler gauge", this "hangs" the valve open, causing the minor miss.

If you want to try to "sneak-into" a minor bit of performance increase, try setting the intake valves a bit tighter, .008 instead of the .010
If the engine starts running rougher at idle, Go Back To .010, if the idle stays smooth,....how about @ .007? This puts a small bit more duration on the intake valve event, this also works in "concept" with the exhaust but there is way more "risk" of a "choppy idle" and burned exhaust valves, so .020, may-be .019 (HOT) is about as tight as I would go. Bottomline, these lash settings have some "leeway", a little tighter or looser is OK, as long as a smooth idle is maintained.

That's it, Button it up and go for a drive.
DD

Author:	bluedart73 [ Thu Nov 02, 2006 1:06 pm ]
Post subject:	valve lash adjustment
do you know of any links or articles describing adjusting the valve clearance on the 225 six. THe tapping is strating to get loud and at speed i don't know if the motor is knocking or it is the valve tap.

Author:	slantvaliant [ Thu Nov 02, 2006 1:24 pm ]
Post subject:
Here you go: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=72139

Author:	Patrick Devlin [ Thu Nov 02, 2006 1:24 pm ]
Post subject:
You may also want to carefully check for exhaust leaks. Exhaust leaks can cause a loud ticking or tapping sound under acceleration, at speed, etc. Here's the valve adjustment procedure from Doctor Dodge himself: Quote: We really need to do an article on valve adjustment.... I find that it is nice to adjust the valves while the engine is running because that can tell you a lot about the condition of the engine and also allows for a level of "fine tuning". Here is a procedure: The engine must be hot. Once valve cover is off, I check the torque on the head bolts, if they don't move ("crack" loose and turn more) by 75 ft.lbs, go to the next, follow the "center-outward" sequence. Also check to see if all the rocker arms are oiling out the center and tip holes. If not, now is the time to change them. When I do my adjustment with the engine running, I turn the idle down as low as possible and put some cardboard under the car. (if you want your floor to stay clean!) I start with the intakes, stock cams adjust at .010, watch for the TWO INTAKES side by side in the center of the row (Cylinders 3&4) use the manifolds as your guide. Come back around for the exhaust valves, they should be plenty hot by now,(remember, the engine is running and you are "feeling" the clearance between the "hits", if unsure, stop the engine for a moment and recheck to help establish your "feel" The exhaust is set at .020 but shoot for looser to start. (.021 - .022) Find a setting where the idle is smooth but the lifters are mostly quite, yes "mostly" quite, they should make a small bit of ticking noise when correct. When you have things set right, each cylinder should "miss" slightly when you insert the "feeler gauge", this "hangs" the valve open, causing the minor miss. If you want to try to "sneak-into" a minor bit of performance increase, try setting the intake valves a bit tighter, .008 instead of the .010 If the engine starts running rougher at idle, Go Back To .010, if the idle stays smooth,....how about @ .007? This puts a small bit more duration on the intake valve event, this also works in "concept" with the exhaust but there is way more "risk" of a "choppy idle" and burned exhaust valves, so .020, may-be .019 (HOT) is about as tight as I would go. Bottomline, these lash settings have some "leeway", a little tighter or looser is OK, as long as a smooth idle is maintained. That's it, Button it up and go for a drive. DD edit: slantvaliant beat me to it!

Author:	slantvaliant [ Thu Nov 02, 2006 1:41 pm ]
Post subject:
Holeshot!

Slant Six Forum https://www.slantsix.org/forum/

valve lash adjustment https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20596	Page 1 of 1

Page 1 of 1	All times are UTC-08:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/