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| I need help! https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20612 |
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| Author: | Draco_Scaline [ Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | I need help! |
I'm having an electronic issue... off the battery goes a wire..wich leads to a wiring harnse in the fire wall... it has burned through killing all electrical to the car... so i think i need a new wiring harnse.... where can i get one?..or maybe a rewiring kit for under the hood? the car is a 68 dodge dart..and if i don't get it running again i have to sell her wich i don't want to do.. any advice? |
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| Author: | GTS225 [ Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Draco, it sounds suspiciously like you've burned up what's called a "fusible link". It looks like wire, but is engineered to act like a fuse. Take a closer look at it, and see if you can find a "tag" that appears to be made out of the same material as the insulation on the wire. It would be a big help if you could post a pic of the affected area. Roger |
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| Author: | Draco_Scaline [ Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yeah dude that is exactly what burnt in half! I herd some noise (i now realised was arching) for a week before ...then one day the car shut off and smoke was coming from the alt(?). but it started back up.., next day it died for real... so what do i do now? |
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| Author: | Draco_Scaline [ Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yeah dude that is exactly what burnt in half! I herd some noise (i now realised was arching) for a week before ...then one day the car shut off and smoke was coming from the alt(?). but it started back up.., next day it died for real... so what do i do now? |
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| Author: | Draco_Scaline [ Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yeah dude that is exactly what burnt in half! I herd some noise (i now realised was arching) for a week before ...then one day the car shut off and smoke was coming from the alt(?). but it started back up.., next day it died for real... so what do i do now? |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
(1) Replace the fusible link. if it were me I would bypass it using an in-line fuse that is replaceable and rated at 30 amps. This way you can trace the short causing the fuse to blow without having to keep on replaing a fusible link. (2) Find out why your main battery feed blew (3) Take this opportunity to bypass the bulkhead connector on the firewall and eliminate that terminal from you ain battery feed. (4) Also take this opportunity to clean and check all the conectors in the bulkhead terminal (5) This is also a good time to install relays on your headlights. It sounds to me like you had an internal failure in your altetrnator. Try swapping that first. |
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| Author: | Draco_Scaline [ Sat Nov 04, 2006 8:09 pm ] |
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I'll try and see if i can get pics tomorrow... So how would i go about changing the "fuseable link" into a fuse....I mean how do i plug it into the "plug" in the fire wall? and sorry about my muti post of the same thing... my pda internet gliched up |
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| Author: | Draco_Scaline [ Sun Nov 05, 2006 2:19 pm ] |
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ok, can't get pics for awile.. I got a blade style fuse & holder.. of course that got it back up when i touched the wires together. Now the wires are geting old and need replacing....that being said, can i just remove the wire that was the 'fusable link' from the firewall plug and insert the wire from the fuse holder in its place? Or am I going to have to replace that plug? and finally....what's the 'fire wall plug' thing called?? 
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| Author: | Slanted Opinion [ Sun Nov 05, 2006 4:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I believe it's called a bulkhead connector. |
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| Author: | dakight [ Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
There is a reason the factory used fusible links instead of fuses. They will withstand short duration spikes in current but will blow if there is a sustained overload. Most fuses will react much more quickly - perhaps too quickly. A circuit breaker for testing is OK usually, but I would replace the fusible link with another fusible link when I was sure that the original problem was resolved. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sun Nov 05, 2006 8:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: There is a reason the factory used fusible links instead of fuses. They will withstand short duration spikes in current but will blow if there is a sustained overload. Most fuses will react much more quickly - perhaps too quickly. A circuit breaker for testing is OK usually, but I would replace the fusible link with another fusible link when I was sure that the original problem was resolved.
That's what slowblow fuses are for...........
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| Author: | Draco_Scaline [ Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
ok...so whats a slow blow fuse?.. never seen one.. |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Quote: There is a reason the factory used fusible links instead of fuses. They will withstand short duration spikes in current but will blow if there is a sustained overload. Most fuses will react much more quickly - perhaps too quickly. A circuit breaker for testing is OK usually, but I would replace the fusible link with another fusible link when I was sure that the original problem was resolved.
That's what slowblow fuses are for...........I am in favor of staying with a fuseable link, except for testing/diagnostic purposes. Just as an example, some electric radiator fans will draw 40 amps when first starting. When they get to speed, will only draw about 6-7 amps. What size slow blow fuse would you use? |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Mon Nov 06, 2006 4:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Quote: Quote: There is a reason the factory used fusible links instead of fuses. They will withstand short duration spikes in current but will blow if there is a sustained overload. Most fuses will react much more quickly - perhaps too quickly. A circuit breaker for testing is OK usually, but I would replace the fusible link with another fusible link when I was sure that the original problem was resolved.
That's what slowblow fuses are for...........I am in favor of staying with a fuseable link, except for testing/diagnostic purposes. Just as an example, some electric radiator fans will draw 40 amps when first starting. When they get to speed, will only draw about 6-7 amps. What size slow blow fuse would you use? Radio Shack etc.............. (just search on fuses) (note available for blade type) For a fan I'd say 20 - 25 amp fuse |
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