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 Post subject: Super Six Question
PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 6:59 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:07 pm
Posts: 311
Location: DALLAS, GA
Car Model:
I finally got that super six setup in. No more vapor lock. Indeed my heat riser valve spring wasn't working like it should on the old one. This replacement exhaust manifold's heat riser valve works great. Now upon hooking this up, my buddy and I were just trying to get it to get me home. And of course, there was major ticking. We knew it was an exhaust leak. When I visit his place the next weekend, we got the ticking to go away. But the difference in sound under the hood was like night and day. It now sounds like I need a muffler under the hood. Mind you, my buddy and I love the sound. It sounds totally cool when punching it. However, it also sounds like a bad muffler up there as well. We know it shouldn't be an exhaust leak, as it is not ticking. And when we accidentally broke a stud when putting on the manifolds, we removed it. Antifreeze shot out, getting some fluid inside the intake manifold. We removed it the best we could. But when I started it up, white steam or smoke came out the tail pipe, but none was under the hood. My buddy, who took this system off his Demon says it is just different to me, and he thinks it sounds fine. Another guy is thinking the same. That the bigger carburetor willl make a difference. Tell me, did any of you guys, after installing a super six setup, hear a lot more noise from under the hood? And I am not talking about when you floor it. Just idling, there is a huge sound difference. The reason I am asking is, when it had the tick tick sound, it wasn't that loud. And we still need to do more tweaking with the timing, and kickdown linkage. Performance wise at this point, is barely noticeble compared to the one barrel. I think the timing will cure most of that though. The main thing, the vapor lock problem I had is officially gone.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:11 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24803
Location: North America
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This is one of those "If you have to ask...it ain't right!" situations. No, there is no significant increase in noise under the hood with a 2bbl vs. a 1bbl; your exhaust manifold installation still has problems. The ticking sound is only when the exhaust leak is at one individual runner. If it is from one or more cracks near the manifold collector, or the top (to intake) or bottom (to headpipe) gasket junction, or at the EGR valve, it'll just sound...loud!

Exhaust leaks aren't just noisy, they're dangerous. Find and fix it pronto!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:38 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
Car Model:
I'm thinking you didn't put the manifolds together correctly. Its a pain, but if you look in the articals area on this site, there is a write up on the proper sequence.


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 Post subject: Super Six Question
PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 7:33 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:07 pm
Posts: 311
Location: DALLAS, GA
Car Model:
I KNEW IT !!!!! Thanks guys for confirming that for me. I just couldn't buy that it wasn't still an exhaust leak. And Dan, what you said about the multiple ports makes a lot of sense. As that is what it really sounds like to me. I will have to do a search for those instructions, and then back it out, and try it again. I appreciate your help.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 8:11 am 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24803
Location: North America
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The gasket between the intake and exhaust manifolds is a real stinker...the only ones you can get nowtimes are stamped stainless steel, and they almost never seal correctly. The only way I've been able to get a reliable seal out of these stamped sheetmetal gaskets is to goop both sides with a heavy but even layer of high-temperature (grey) Mopar RTV silicone, let it cure, and then install the gasket. The RTV will smoke, reek and char for the first hour or so of engine operation, but it'll fill the gaps and make the seal. I'm working on getting better, crushable composition graphite gaskets made for this area (the factory "problem solver" was a composition foil/asbestos gasket which I guess they eventually decided was too expensive to carry on using...so we must do "asbestos" we can with what we have until better ones become available! :shock:)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:29 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
Car Model:
Quote:
The only way I've been able to get a reliable seal out of these stamped sheetmetal gaskets is to goop both sides with a heavy but even layer of high-temperature (grey) Mopar RTV silicone
I've also had good results with Permatex Hi-temp copper RTV.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 12:34 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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So have I, years ago, that's decent stuff, but I find the Mopar stuff so much easier to work with, and I stand so much a better chance of success using it, that I no longer use any other brand for any job. See here and here.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 2:21 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
There's an orange hi-temp silicon I've had good luck with on exhaust systems (although never tried on the manifolds as I've never had them apart)

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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