Got my Holley 2300 put on the car last night. Wow! What a difference. Gotta get everything adjusted and tuned properly but so far she runs a whole lot better.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Gotta few questions to follow shortly.

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1974 Dodge Dart Custom, 225, 904, now with a Holley 2300...

Dialing in your timing curve, and getting the jetting and idle/transition circuits to all jive and provide good mileage *and* great power is a fun juggling act, take your time and do one "change" at a time, note your progress in a note pad so you can "undo" bad changes and not repeat them.

Good job!

-D.Idiot

very clean, interestin installation. I wonder why you rotated the bown to the driver's side instead of the passg side? just curious...

as DI says, (and he's one of the holley gurus here) dialing it in woudl be both fun and rewarding. Gotta take a stake here and say that properly tuned, a 2300 is way better in performance than any BBD and you can achieve sort of the same mileage.

I like your ride!

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Thanks guy's. It's been a damn fun install and I know it's gonna be fun getting it tuned up. Now time for a few questions...
First, a while back I bought a Holley book, Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carburetors but it seems pretty generic now that I'm trying to tune the carb up. It idles great but stumbles a bit from idle and part throttle acceleretion and it also surges some while cruising. I know a better book would explain which way I should go to smooth this thing out. The only thing I can figure from this book is that the surging could be caused by the jets being too lean. (started with 53's, plugs look good, gonna put 55's in and see how things change.) Anybody got a recommendation on a better book.

Second, how should I hook up the charcoal canister with this carb. My canister has 3 ports: CARB, TANK, and PURGE. From reading past posts I've gathered that the PURGE should be tee'd to the PCV hose but what about the CARB port? Full manifold vacuum? Hmm...

And as far as how I mounted the carb. I tried to make it as hard as possible to get the linkages figured out . Actually, I figured that the fuel would stay cooler hanging off the manifolds than sitting over them and soaking up all the heat.

Thanks for your time and answers.

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1974 Dodge Dart Custom, 225, 904, now with a Holley 2300...

yes surging would be to small main jets. My 2300 had 56 jets on it, 8.5 power valve (one stage) but my cam ain't exactly stock...
about books... I used to spend money in books of that kind ("super tuning...") and then realize that most of the books like that says all the same and talks a lot of BS and you never get to a chapter enlightening you about what happens if you're short on the idle mixture needles, or if you use a high rated valve or underrated, or if you use too big of a jet or too small... that's why I take pride and joy in sponsoring this site, it's a real problem solver, and when you ask questions you get answers and not vague talk about crab's resurrection

The book, altough, would be good to level up to the parts names and general knowledge about the carb itself.
can't help you here, we never got those kind of gimmicks such as EGR, charcoal canister, etc.
see? I never stop learning! in all this years, all that I think of when I decide how to mount a carb is where I have the float hung, try to avoid side float action, facing the venturis the best I can think of for fuel distribution, never thought about the bowl soaking up in manifold's heat. You do, man! that's one very good reason for mounting it that way.
do you have any oher pictures of your car?

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Before you fool around with jetting, check your idle fuel calibration. First set your best idle with regard to engine speed and idle mixture setting. If you have a stock or near stock cam that pulls good vacuum, you can probably skip the next step. Remove the carb and measure how much of the transfer slot is exposed under the throttle plates. If less then 0.040, then OK. If greater than 0.040, then you will have to drill air bypass holes in the plates as outlined in the Holley book.

Once you have the proper relationship between throttle plates and idle transfer slots, then raise engine speed to ~2000 RPM or just before main circuit starts and again adjust idle mixture needles for best setting. If turning needles in raises engine speed, then idle circuit is rich. If turning needles out raises engine speed, then idle circuit is lean - unless you have a 'reverse' idle circuit. Then this is the opposite. Your idle circuit is correctly calibrated when this check results in no change in engine speed. The necessary modifications are detailed in the book. I have modified many different carbs and getting this correct plays a major role in optimizing part-throttle response and off idle transition to the main circuit.

Getting this right first before changing jets is important because both the idle and main circuits are flowing fuel at part throttle - even at highway speeds. Once you get this right, then you can work on your jetting and power circuits.

Mitch

The "TANK" port goes to the vapor separator,... that vents the fuel tank in one or more places. I believe it's on the Pass. side firewall, coming from under the car. The "CARB" port goes to the bowl vent fitting on top of the carb. The "PURGE" tees into the PCV line, as you said.
Someone chime in if this is wrong.
BBBanjo

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Here's a couple more pix. One & Two Got more photos, just not up at photobucket. That's still original paint, doesn't look too bad for being 32 years old. Of course pictures hide alot of the dents & dings & scratches...

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1974 Dodge Dart Custom, 225, 904, now with a Holley 2300...

Thanks MitchB, however I had already changed the jets before reading your post. Put 55's in and it's much better. No hesitation but still some surging at cruise, although much less than with the 53's. Have a stock cam and the engine pulls 19 in. of vacuum at idle. Will go through that procedure before rejetting. Thanks.

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1974 Dodge Dart Custom, 225, 904, now with a Holley 2300...

I used to think this was right, but it isn't quite. It'll often cause idle problems. There needs to be a cannister purge valve that only opens when the engine is above idle. Fortunately, such standalone purge valves are readily available. NAPA Echlin # 2-28011:



Small fittings gets teed to the vacuum advance hose (which should have no vacuum at idle, full vacuum above idle)

Big fittings go inline with "PURGE" hose from cannister to PCV hose.

The reason there's no purge valve on most of the Mopar cannisters is that the "purge" port on the original-equipment carburetors were set up so as not to have vacuum at engine idle.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well, I thought it had to have a purge-valve, because my '72 has one. BUT, like you said, they eliminated the valve around '73. Maybe they crossed up carbs and canisters? Mine has 4 ports, with the built in purge valve. I have a 1bbl. though, so it may be slightly different.
Sorry for the mis-information! I'm working with a '72, after that, I'm left in the shade.

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Ok. I'm thinking of setting up the canister up like this. The bowl vent on this carb is under the air cleaner so I'll just let the carb do it's own venting and plug the CARB port on the canister, tee the PURGE to the PCV through the valve that SSDan stated earlier (Thanks Dan) & of course the tank to the TANK port. Would this work to properly vent the tank or should I do something else entirely?

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1974 Dodge Dart Custom, 225, 904, now with a Holley 2300...

That'll work to vent the tank properly and safely. Put a new filter (Standard/Bluestreak CF-1) on the bottom of the canister. H'mm...no external bowl vent on your 2300? Are ya sure? Maybe it's just the old hat-type vent without a hose fitting?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Nope, I believe the OP is right, in that the aftermarket universal ones don't have external bowl vents.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

Yeah, the bowl vent is the tube standing at the back of the choke plate, in between the throttle bores.
Thanks everyone. Now, on with the tuning.

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1974 Dodge Dart Custom, 225, 904, now with a Holley 2300...