I'm prepping a /6 for replacement into a 67 ragtop cuda. After removing the rear main seal retainer, I find a glazed old rope type seal which looks like it wants to stay put. Any magic tricks for removal? Torch OK or bad idea? Specialty tool/square drift? I'd rather not disturb crank bearings. Also new seal is newer type: OK to use?
Happy New Year. Designate. JS

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

If you go to the articles section and look at the one about the rear main seal install before you replace it, it will help you alot. About pulling the old rope seal when i first pulled mine i screwed a wood screw into it and pulled it out ( be carful not to nick the seal cap or your block )

Just get under it and pop it out. It eill come out easier then you think.
Replacement seals are now a rubber "lip seal".
DD

Hello,

I had to replace mine and did the deed last nite (with engine still in the truck).

After convincing myself it would be impossible for ME to do this, it only took about 15 minutes after I had removed the block that holds the seals together.

First, I read the forum article already referenced. Then instead of using a screw-in arrangement to pull the old rope seal that the FSM shows, I thought I would first try a 3/8 wood dowel about 8 inches long that I whittled to match the shape of the seal hole in the hold in block to push out the seal. I pushed once, nothing happened. Then I tapped lightly with my fist while turning the flywheel with a flywheel tool (from harbor freight $6). The seal came out so fast it was in my face before I realized it had moved much! I would like to put a rope seal back in because I have one, but am going to go with one of the new rubber seals because I had difficulty getting a rope seal to start back in the hole on top of the crankshaft.

I am gonna make sure the little right angle tab things are held in place with 3M weatherstrip adhesive, and dab a little of the adhesive on the faces of the block where it meets the engine block too, for good luck. Classic case of taking much longer to get to the seal than to fix it.
rock
'64d100

Thanks RR7196, DD, Rock,
I met with success, did the screw trick, and hit the block a wee bit with a torch to get it up to room temp. It's about 29 F in the driveway. Engine swap in January, no problem. JS
('8)

Rock, Champ Tools used to make a tool for pulling a rope seal into the groove under an installed crankshaft. It was sort of like one end of the old Chinese Handcuff attached to a handle. The problem is that it will be impossible to properly pack the seal in the groove with the crank installed. You'll be far better off with the 2 piece rubber seal.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.