Guys.

While I love runing through the gears on my A833OD, twice with no waning at all there was a shift lockup and I had to roll to the shoulder to get gears unjammed. Each time I was able to unlock the gear jam from inside the vehicle by slipping the clutch and tugging and pulling the shifter handle. I know worn out bushings caused this in my old 3speed but it was a column shift and the bushings were at the end of the column where the shift levers went down. In my current application the levers are the correctones , the tabs are correct, the shifter is in great shape, and the levers are securely pinned to the tranny at the tabs and shifter.

Some folks I have asked say I should get the shifters as tight as possible between the tabs and the shifter, some say looser. I set these up on a bench and ran through shifts as fast as I could dozens of times with no lockup, but the levers are not as tight (shortest possible distance) between the shifter and tabs as possible to get them. Before experimenting with looser and then tighter, I thought I would see what others might say here. That's the problem with two choices, each has advocates, but you all probably know more than any persons I talked to.

Thanks
rock
'64d100

I am really not sure what you mean by looser or tighter. As far as any slack in the rods, you want to get all the slack out of the rods&levers as you can. But sounds like this may not be what your talking about.


On the side of the shifter there is a whole (small one), this is made for putting a drill bit through to help line things up. You put this drill bit through the whole & ajust your rods to line up with where the shifter is while the drill bit is in the whole. This would be with all gears in neutral.

Locking up when shifting would probably be from this not being lined up right. Even after you do this sometimes you have to tweak the rods a little bit because of slack. And if the shifter has ajustable stops for each gear, these will need to be reajusted after this is done.


Jess

Thanks Lucky,

Mopar shift rods have one end that is (male) threaded to go into an internally threaded (female) pin device and one end that has a right angle that is machined to push into a tab and be pinned. What I am asking is if rods should be tightened (turned into) the round internally threaded attachments (with round extensions that are pinned with Mopar clips and cupped washers) to remove ALL slack, even this 1/32 to 1/16, between the Hurst shifter tabs and the tranny tabs, or whether slightly looser is better. I have them now adjusted to where they allow fast smooth shifts. My Hurst shifter was properly adjusted with the neutral pin in place.

Even so, slack exists as now adjusted because the Hurst shifter arms have maybe a 1/16 to 1/32 play back and forth. The tranny tabs, being attached to the tranny with nuts move back and forth only as the play in the tranny allows yet that is still 1/16 to 1/32 also.

I could tighten the rods until the rods took up the play between the tranny and Hurst shifter, or loosen it more. The rods work somewhat like a turnbuckle in other words.

I hate to just experiment, because it must be one way or the other. The lockup has occured twice when wanting to move down from 4th to 3rd or 3rd to 2d when coming to a stoplight. Isn't happeing on upshift.

Thanks!
rock
'64d100

Where can I get new bushings for a 3 speed column shift ? Mine are very worn.

Mine locked up and I had a fun time gettting it loose again. It is the A230. I am almost afraid to drive it.