Hi, my shop tells me that the carter single barrel carburetor on my stock, non super six 225 on my 1962 two door Signet won't adjust properly. the mechanic suspects an internal crack or leak that is causing a lean condition. he just put a rebuild kit into it.

rather than have him spend hours chasing that gremlin, i was wondering if the forum had some good references for picking up a good used carter single barrel? or other application?

the numbers on the carb are brass tag 41968 2270 and on the carb body 6-1697.

thanks!

cshunley

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cs hunley

Found one on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rebuilt- ... 5183QQrdZ1

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82 D150 Slant6 Shorty
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/658846

CSHunley: Slow down a minute before you go out and get a carb. Does your '62 have PCV or does it have a road draft tube? Do you know how to tell the difference? It will affect which carburetors will fit and work correctly.

MrHite65: Please don't post eBay's long URLs; they screw up the screen display on this board. Please Either just post the item number or paste in this text:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=

and put the item number after the = sign. Thanks!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hello Dan. the mechanic advises that no pcv valve is present on the carburetor. the issue we are having is stuttering off the line, and we suspect a hard to identify vacuum leak. so i am thinking of getting a different carburetor, since that will cost less than continuing to spend the mechanics time working this one that has issues. are there magic numbers or words i should know when searching for a new carb?

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cs hunley

The problem may be in the distributor and not with the carb.
Does the engine get "instant advance" when you crack the throttle?
(check with a timing light)
Is the vacuum advance "pod' in good condition and adjusted correctly?
DD

Just for reference, the PCV valve is not located on the carburetor even on vehicles so equipped. The PCV valve is mounted atop the valve cover, and there's a hose of about 1/2" outside diameter connected between the PCV valve and the carburetor base. If the car isn't equipped with PCV, then there's no such 1/2" hose running from the valve cover to the carburetor, and the rearmost "chimney" of the valve cover has a metal pipe attached that curves around and downward to dump out under the car. '62 models were built both ways. It is likely your mechanic is indeed saying there's no PCV on this particular car, but it's wise to double check.

Doc raises a very good point; your stuttering condition could be due to ignition troubles rather than carburetor problems. A very easy way to check the vacuum advance is to hook up a timing light, let the engine idle, and watch the timing mark while you apply vacuum to the vacuum advance by sucking on the vacuum advance hose. The timing mark should move noticeably and the engine idle should speed up. If that doesn't happen, or if you cannot get the advance to hold (you can keep sucking air) then the vacuum advance needs replacing and/or the hose is cracked or broken.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

i am happy to report that i picked up the 62 Valiant and it runs well. had no trouble reaching 90 mph on the freeway, with just the new mopar electronic ignition and the carburetor work. this with the stock 1 barrel carter, stock manifolds and stock size exhaust.

the car gets off the line nicely with no hesitation when it is punched hard. occasionally spins the rear wheel even. however, a moderate acceleration does have a short hesitation between idle and acceleration mode. not real bad, no sense of choking down, just a slight hesitation. the mechanic advised the advance is working fine, but he thinks there may be a remnant leak somewhere. but the car runs so much better than it did and even with the one reservation noted is fun and acceptable to me. i am hoping with the electronic ignition to put a lot of miles on it with no hassle!

my next issue is the dash lights are intermittent / not on and wonder what the leading culprit or work around i should pursue. thanks guys for your help my mechanic used your comments and some other carb stuff i found on the site to help him out. cshunley

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cs hunley

The remnant hesitation is probably down to the the adjustment/condition of the carburetor's accelerator pump. This can be adjusted—would you like help doing it yourself?

Dash lights: If they work sometimes, then you probably need a new headlamp switch (the power for the dash lights comes through a variable resistor in the headlamp switch). Do you get any changes in intensity (or do they flicker on) if you turn on the parking lamps and rotate the headlamp knob all the way left and all the way right?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

sometimes they light up and will change intensity, other times they won't come on at all. where would i find such a switch?

and it is about time to do the headliner, i see you have a signet, who supplied yours?

thanks!

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cs hunley

Headlamp switch can be had from NAPA under the Echlin brand, P/N HL6571. You can also get it from a Standard/BlueStreak stockist under P/N DS165. Replacing it will be a hassle on the '62..."some" disassembly required on the dashboard! If you like, you can make a simple mod to the new switch before installing it for improved front lighting safety: to have your parking lamps stay on with the headlamps (instead of turning off as they do on most cars made before '68 ), it's very easy to do. Just run a short jumper between the "P" and "R" terminals on the headlamp switch body, right down at the base of those terminals, then push the connector block onto the switch, on top of your new jumper wire. Quick, easy and clean. This way, if a headlamp burns out, oncoming cars still see you as a double-track vehicle and don't think you're a motorcycle.

I don't have a Signet, mine's a '62 Lancer, and I need a headliner, too. I haven't decided where to get it, yet. It's possible that REM makes them, but I haven't yet checked. I know I can get good quality new headliners for '60-'62 Valiant/Lancer out of Australia. My original is low-quality green cloth. The replacement will probably be high-quality off-white vinyl, perforated or un-.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have a problem with this as well, I would love to know how to adjust this.

Robb Adams

to replace the headlight switch, will i have to drop the steering wheel column? that would be a new job for me. wondering how many hours and tools i will need. i do have the shop manual to help. i will do the mod you suggest to the switch.

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cs hunley

Dropping the steering column is easy and takes only a couple minutes. That's not the hard part. The hard part is accessing the switch itself. You'll have to remove the instrument cluster faceplate, which again is very easy, and the instrument cluster itself, which is a little more challenging (must disconnect the speedo cable and electrical connections from the rear of the cluster, which requires small hands and arms or at least wrapping your arms in a tube sock with finger holes cut out so you don't get scraped up), then the switch can be removed from the cluster and its electrical connector removed. You will need to save the switch knob shaft from your old switch to transfer to the new switch. After you have removed the switch knob, grasp the shaft firmly with pliers (wrap tape around the shaft so you don't scar it up). Find the little hemispherical spring-loaded pushbutton on the side or bottom of the switch, press it in hard (a penny taped to your thumb helps a lot) and withdraw the shaft from the switch. It will take a few attempts. The shaft will go right into the new switch; be sure to press it in until it snap locks into place.

Remember to disconnect the battery negative cable before working on or under the instrument cluster/dashboard.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Back to the vac/leak hesitation problem, kep a eye out for a leaky intake/exhaust gasket. Had a guy with a 63 vailiant having same problems and the gasket was almost nonexistant when disassembled.

how does one drop the steering column? doesn't it require removing the center column horn button with a special tool? this would be a nice trick to know for making room to work under the dash replacing heater hoses, wiring in the stereo cables, replacing the dash lights.

thanks for all the help, the car is a joy to run even with the small hesitation for slow starts off the line. it doesn't hesitate at all for hard accelerations off the line.

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cs hunley