Hi, I'm new to this forum, and unfortunately I don't have much mechanical knowledge. I can change fuses and spark plugs, but that's as far as I've gone. I'm incredibly frustrated because I cannot keep my Dart running. (Ok, it's not my Dart, it's my husbands, but he's already given up on it). It's already been taken to two mechanics, who diagnosed it, "fixed it" and then of course charged me at a rate that becomes unacceptable as soon as the car starts having the same problems it has had all along.

The first mechanic that worked on this thing replaced the starter and worked on the breaks. It died two days later and my husband left him a nasty message. They had a verbal brawl and then the guy "fixed" it again, which again only kept it running temporarily.

Here's the symptoms:

The car acts like it has a dead battery:
Replaced the battery
The car runs fine after the battery is replaced (for about a week) and then the battery is dead again.

(We have somehow figured out that there's a 3 amp draw on the battery if the ignition switch is left at anything but a 90 degree angle when the key is removed. We always turn the lights off first before turning the vehicle off and then check that the switch is in the correct position).

My husband replaces the voltage regulator and the alternator.
Again, the car runs fine for about a week.

We're able to get by with jumping the car for a while, but eventually the headlights dim and the turn signals stop working.
We take it to a Dodge Dealership and have them diagnose the vehicle.
Here's their diagnosis:
Vehicle needs new voltage regulator (?), new battery (???), and a new negative terminal battery cable.

Okay fine, we have them replace the battery cable. My husband installs another voltage regulator (because it was cheaper than having them do it for $80) and the battery is brand new so we let it slide for about a week.

Car runs great until I go to the store one morning and it won't start when I come out. The battery is dead. After walking home getting my husband and our emergency starter, we attempt to jump it. My husband thinks I ran out of gas (improbable ) but the gage was not on empty when I left the house. After several attempts at jumping it, the battery and the jumper are out of juice. We fill a gas can and get some Engine Starter spray and it still won't start. Walk over to Napa, buy a new battery, he keeps the ignition cranked for an unreasonable amount of time and BAM! it starts. FINE.... I ran out of gas and the battery died at the same time. This is just my luck. So it seems...

The car runs great for another 3 or 4 days, except it's acting like it's misfiring at times. There was a instance when it wouldn't move forward at a stop sign when I accelerated and then suddenly jumped forward like the engine was going to fly outta the hood. (Didn't mention this to hubby, thought the engine was just cold, or we need new spark plugs). It did misfire once when he was driving as well.

Everything else is fine until 2 nights ago, I try to start the car and NOTHING happens when I turn the key. No starter clicks or anything. I go get hubby and he comes out, puts the key in the ignition and of course it starts (although reluctantly, and not until the second try). So he thinks I can't figure out how to get the key in the ignition properly...whatever. I keep the car running while I'm at the store so there's no issues about getting home. When I'm driving, I'm noticing that the turn signals are only blinking at about half speed .
The next day, the car won't start at alll. Doesn't even try to. No clicks or anything. The ignition switch light comes on just fine and it doesn't seem to be a battery issue.

Do I need a new ignition switch?

I tried putting the car in neutral this morning and starting it but it made one single click sound and did nothing else. Then I tried again while jiggling the shifter (the car is an automatic) and still nothing. DEAD.

Any ideas?

(I promise to keep my posts short and sweet after this one). Thanks in advance for any advice.

did you check the neutral safety switch or the ballast resistor
(also with the ignition switch mine is a bit fussy i have to hold it on for about 4 to 8 seconds for it to even turn the engine over so i replaced it and it is fine now)

The ignition switch is easy and cheap to replace.


You now have 2 new batteries....get a cheap charger so you have one charged all the time till you figure this out.

Clean the battery terminals and cables.

Next time you have the car running take off the battery cables while the car is running. If it continues to run you have at least part of a charging system

Find a garage (not Dodge Dealer) that understands older vehicles. You might even consider an auto electrical shop. Ask for a mechanic who understands older vehicles. This dude will not have piercing or an IPod. If they dont have an older guy find another shop(you can do this on the phone....tell them what kind of car you have)

A 69 Dart is an outstanding vehicle....be patient....see it through...you wont regret it.

Some things the mechanic could look for/at :

Bulkhead connector

Ammeter

Ignition switch

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

You may have 2 different problems going here.

Hang on for an equally long reply!

- Jumping and cranking an engine that still refuses to start points to a fuel problem, or an ignition problem. It is also possible you may have flooded the engine, which will keep it from starting even though it cranks over.

- Turning the key over and having a no result (no cranking sound) may either be from a dead battery, or a bad start relay, or a bad neutral safety start switch, or possibly even something else (like a bad ignition switch).

To fix this, you're going to have to troubleshoot it logically, and you'll need a tool or two. Since the problem seems to be intermittent it may be a little tough to diagnose. Try these steps:

1- Go get yourself a battery monitor, the kind that plugs into a cigarette lighter socket. They cost about $15. Here is link for one of these:
http://theauto.zoovy.com/product/RP203VM

2- Now you have a way to CONFIRM whether the charging system is working or not. When you are driving the Dart just glance over and see what the voltage is running... it should be 13.8 volts or a little higher. It should be 12.6 volts when the car is turned off with all the lights off.

3- You can also use this meter to help diagnose a no-start condition. When you go out to start the Dart and there is no sound... check the meter again. You will see one of three things:

a- The meter is at 12 volts and does not drop when you turn the key into the start position. This means you have a bad neutral switch, or a bad ignition switch, or a bad start relay, or something else like that.

b- The meter is at 12 volts and drops way down when you turn the key. This means either your battery is now dead (possibly from not being charged) or that you have a connection that is very poor, like a bad battery terminal.

c- The meter is at something like 10 volts or less even before you try to crank the engine. This means that something is probably draining the battery overnight, or it is not being charged when you drive, or both.

There is much more to be said here about diagnosis and solving your problem... but I think that if you observe the readings on this meter (both with the car running and with a no-start condition); write down what you observe, and report back on your findings we will be much more able to help you find the problem.

Just as a quick possibility... carefully remove the 3 plugs that connect all the wires from the engine compartment to the firewall of the car (near where the steering column come through). You may find these full of corrosion, a common issue on old Darts, causing a myriad of electrical problems. But still, the voltmeter is a wise investment even if this solves your troubles.

Finally, the guys at the Dodge garage may have few clues as to the problem, because of the age of the car. Everything today reads out on a computer diagnostic connector. Not so when the Dart was built!

Thanks.

-Mac

I took my Dart to an old dude who knows older cars and had him take a look at it. It turns out that even though we've replaced the voltage regulator twice, this was the culprit. He replaced it with an electronic voltage regulator this time. The car now runs like a dream. The last two regulators weren't electronic and I guess there's parts in them that break (apparently pretty easily). Thanks to all who replied to my post.