Yow, that sounds bad.... I used JB-Weld, I figured it would hold......I did put little ridges inside the tube, where the grey stuff could grab. Do you think that would help enough? I drilled a few more little holes, it needed some more; to flow about the same as the original. If it looks like junk, you should see what I had to do it with. A $15.00 plastic electric dremel kit. I found it in the bottom of the tool-box. I want a mill bad.....
I'm still just playin' around with this, I'll be running economaster carb(s) on my driver.
Argentine-Slantsixer, those boosters look great! I wonder if you could do something similar to the economaster? Oh, I checked on the 4500 boosters. around $100 each. Still don't know if they'll fit. They install exactly the same though, the little brass plug even looks like the one in my Holley.(probably the same part!)
Thanks,
BBBanjo

the 4500 boosters would not be a direct fit. That piece is about the same but the insides are larger.

Why did you removed the side wings? the atomization would be kind of hurt without them. As a matter of fact they're still used in some racing classes down here that won't allow 2 barrels on /6 or other IL 6's. We go all over them but we ever remove the "flaps"... sometimes you can create a very interesting effect by grabbing them with soft jaws parallel action pliers and we twist them just a little to create more turbulence.

Other great source of improvement on 1920's is reaming the throttle bore near the blade @ 43 mm or so (1 11/16") and removing part of the venturi (blending the "step" inside the venturi with the big bore part, you need to remove the blade for this and go very precisely by hand if you're good at it or yes with a special tool on a mill, I do it by hand but I must have wrecked a couple of carbs -ok, more like 2 dozens- before achieveing pro results with just a cross pattern rotary file and WD40 to prevent the aluminium load up of the file)